ENGLISH MINCEMEAT

 

Christmas (or Yule-tide) is getting closer everyday and although this year it falls on a Saturday meaning that some of us might not have a longer weekend, most people will want to celebrate this day in a very festive way. No matter if you are not Christian or if the commercial misuse of this event disgust you or puts you off, I guess that like me, you'll nonetheless want to cook or bake something fine for the occasion and will want to do some extreme cocooning...

As I miss England and feel awfully nostalgic when thinking about my second country (I am lucky and proud to have dual nationality and beserker ancestors - Swiss and English) I thought that it would be a great idea to make it a british Xmas this year and eat foods that would remind me of my beloved roots. So in 2010, I will be serving turkey with stuffing (sage & onion) and it's accompaniment (Brussel sprouts with chestnuts & bacon, buttery mashed tatties and gravy). To make it even the more British than it is already, we'll have "Mince Pies" for dessert - an exquisite treat that I have alaways loved as a kid and have been craving since a while.

After having received my Christmas issues of Delicious, Good Food and Jamie Magazine there was no reason I was not going to make my own "Mincemeat". All three magazines offer wonderful recipes for this amazing speciality which originates from Great Britain and can be traced back to the end of Middle Ages (circa the 15th century).

During this epoch finding a method of storing food was of the highest importance and many ways had been developped (pickling, jarring, curing, spicing, etc...). So, initially "Mincemeat" began as a way to preserve food therefore that paste-like mixture can be kept for quite a while (1 month and depending on the kind of fat used, for up to a year).

This brown colored, fruity (apple, raisins, currants, sultanas, candied peel, oranges & lemons), richly spiced ( mixed spice, cinnamon, ginger & nutmeg), boozy (rum) filling enriched with fat (lard, suet or butter) is used in the confection of "Mince Pies" that are traditionally baked for Christmas or Easter (eaten all year long too).

It is very interesting to note that our modern era "Mincemeat" is quite different from the one which was prepared until the 19th century. The original preparation was made with beef, lamb, venison or heart which was finely minced and mixed to suet, dried fruits, citrus peel, alcohol and spices, hence the name it carries. Although this version is now unusual and quite rare to find, some families still perpetuate the tradition.

Although I've eaten my share of "Mince Pies" in the past, this is my first homemade "Mincemeat" and I must say that the result surpasses my expectations by far. Without trying to boast too much, I must recognize that mine is exactly the way it should be and tastes perfect. It has a fresh, tangy, frangrant, fruity, heady, delicately nutty, divinely spicy, well-balanced flavor and isn't too sweet nor sickly. Very Xmassy and so festive.

~Mincemeat ~
Recipe adapted from "Delicious" magazine, December 2010.

Enough to fill 4 jam jars.

Ingredients:
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large organic lemons
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large organic oranges
1 Large (about 300g) Boskoop apple (or Bramley apple)
80g Unsalted butter
20g Lard
70ml Dark rum
200g Raisins
150g Sultanas
150g Currants
100g Candied Orange peel, chopped
50g Candied lemon peel, chopped
1 1/2 Tsp Ground cinnamon
1 Tsp Ground ginger
1/2 Tsp Freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 Tsp Mixed spice
175g Light muscovado sugar
60g Lightly toasted almonds, chopped

Method:
1. Put the orange and lemon zest and juices into a biggish pan.
2. Peel, quarter and core the apple. Grate it and add it to the pan. Stir into the juices so that it doesn’t discolour.
3. Add the butter, lard, rum, dried fruits, candied peels and spices. Cook over a low heat, stirring frequently, for 1 hour until the apple has broken down, the dried fruits are plump and all the liquid has evaporated.
4. Let cool, then add the sugar and the toasted almonds. Mix well.
5. Spoon into cool, sterilised jam jars, press a waxed disc firmly onto the surface of the mixture and seal.
6. Put in the refrigerator and use within 1 month.

Remarks:
Instead of using dark rum, you can use calvados, sherry, brandy or whisky.
You can replace the almonds by hazelnuts or any other roasted nut of your choice (not traditional but ok).
Mincemeat flavors develop over time, so make in several weeks in advance of the holidays.
If you want you mincemeat to have a longer shelf life, then omit the butter and stir in 100g shredded suet at the end (don't add 20g lard at the beginning), along with the sugar and almonds. In that way your mincemeat will keep for up to a year in a cool dark place.
It freezes well too – for up to 6 months.

Serving suggestions:
Make "Mince Pies" using your homemade "Mincemeat".

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~Mincemeat ~
Recette adaptée du magazine "Delicious", Décembre 2010.

Pour 4 pots à confiture.

Ingrédients:
Le zeste et jus de 2 citrons bio
Le zeste et jus de 2 oranges bio
1 Grosse (300g) Pomme boskoop (pomme goûteuse pour compote)
80g de Beurre non-salé
20g de Saindoux
70ml de Rhum foncé
200g de Raisins
150g de Sultanines
150g de Raisins blonds
100g d'Orangeat en cube
100g de Citronnat en cubes
1 1/2 CC de Cannelle en poudre
1 CC de Gingembre en poudre
1/2 CC de Noix de muscade fraîchement moulue
3/4 CC de Mixed spice (voir remarques pour recette)
175g de Sucre "muscovado"
60g d'Amandes torréfiées et hachées

Méthode:
1. Mettre les zestes et jus d'orange et de citron dans une assez grande casserole.
2. Peler, nettoyer et couper en quartiers la pomme, puis la râper et la mélanger au jus dans la casserole.
3. Ajouter le beurre, le saindoux, le rhum, les fruits secs, l'orangeat, le citronnat et les épices, puis cuire (avec couvercle) endant 1 heure à basse température en mélangeant régulièrement jusqu'à ce que la pomme se soit désintégrée, que les raisins soient imbibés et que le jus se soit évaporé.
4. Laisser refroidir, puis ajouter les amandes et le sucre.
5. Remplir des pots à confiture stérilisés et recouvrir le mincemeat avec un rond de papier sulfurisé. Fermer les pots.
6. Conserver le mincemeat au frigo pendant 1 mois maximum.

Remarques:
Au lieu d'utiliser du rhum, vous pouvez prendre du calvados, du whisky, du sherry ou du brandy.
Les amandes peuvent être remplacées par des noisettes ou les noix de votre choix - au préalable torréfiées (pas traditionnel mais ok).
Le mincemeat développe toute sa saveur avec le temps, alors prenez bien soin de le confectionner quelques semaines avant les fêtes.
Si vous voulez garder votre mincemeat encore plus longtemps, alors omettez le beurre et remplacez-le par du saindoux râpé que vous ajouterez à la fin avec le sucre et les amandes. De cette manière vous pourrez le conserver une année au frais et dans un lieu sombre.
Il se congèle aussi très bien – 6 mois maximum.
Pour obtenir le mélange d'épices "Mixed Spice", mélanger ensemble 1 CS de tout épice en poudre, 1 CS de cannellle en poudre 1 CS de noix de muscade moulue,
2 CC de macis en poudre, 1 CC de clous de girofles moulus, 1 CC de Coriandre en poudre et 1 CC de gingembre en poudre.

Idées de présentation:
Confectionner des "Mince Pies" avec votre "Mincemeat".

THE WINTER IS SOVEREIGN

Frost Junkie

White fields
Minus
Mountain cold
The numbing fog

Arctic wind
Intense
Freezing dawn
A bitter gust

Frost junkie
Artisan
Ground sleeper
The winter sovereign

Glacial sculptures
Frozen
Nimbus form
Twelve in numbers

The north chronometer
Ageless
Aberrant art
From the creator

~ Lyrics by Sarke, Norway

This year winter has arrived much earlier than usual - at least one month in advance. Ten days ago we got our first serious blizzard-like weather and minus temperatures (-8° C/17° F during the night and -3° C/26° F during the day). Brrr, it was quite chilly and Siberian looking...

On the last Saturday of November, it snowed the whole day long. That first snowfall was quite important and nature was covered in a dreamlike powdery coat of white. What a beautiful sight!

As I find winter storms so exciting there was no way I was going to stay home looking at it through my windows. I had to go out in the freezing cold, walk in that crunchy white powder, feel the crisp air bite my cheeks and inhale the clean smell of fresh snow.

So, armed with my camera, dressed like an Inuit and eager to face the hyperborean climate outside I set a foot out of the house. It was snowing quite strong, my hair was frozen and the wind was quite strong, but I courageously shot pictures of the magificent scenery that offered itself to me. It was really a lovely walk and day!

ASSAMESE SOUR FISH CURRY - CURRY AIGRE DE POISSON

A few months ago fellow foodblogger and expat (Hong Kong & London) Janet Ching from "Gourmet Traveller 88" who lives in Basel (Switzerland) kindly proposed to send me a complimentary copy of her self-produced book as an appreciation of my supporting her blog all along. It was with much excitement that I accepted her kind proposition...

A few days later the book arrived and I had a lot of pleasure going through it's pages. This little 32 pages cookbook is enjoyable and is full of delicious recipes that can be found on her blog. The vast majority of the courses presented are Asian-oriented (Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Korean and Vietnamese) and a minority of them are Western-oriented (Switzerland, Holland, Italian and French).

Picking out a main course that would be featured in an article was not an easy task as I fancied many of them. Thanksfully, as I am passionate about Asian cuisine, as I drool any time the word "curry" is pronounced and as I believe in seasonal cooking my choice was made a lot easier. Since a few dishes required summer veggies I opted for a recipe that would enable me to buy local produces and respect the environment. It is for that reason that I decided upon preparing "Assamese Sour Fish Curry". Not only did the picture of that dish attract me, but I also liked the idea of eating a spicy meal that would not be too heavy nor too fat and which would bring a little heat as well as comfort - much needed with this polar weather (snow and minus temperatures) we are having here at the moment.

"Assamese Sour Fish Curry" or "Masoor Tenga" hails from Assam in northeastern India where it is a very popular speciality (a note to the purists - of course this version is a little Westernized and different from the original LOL). This light curry is really easy to prepare, can be put together in no time at all and it tastes lipsmackingly good. It is quite peppery and hot, exhaliratingly spicy, delightfully sour and has a certain freshness thanks to the addition of lime juice. Perfectly balanced and flavored!

~ Assamese Sour Fish Curry ~

Recipe adapted from " Discovering New Tastes And Rediscovering Long Lost Tastes" by Janet Ching.

Ingredients:
1 Tbs Coriander seeds
2 Tsp Cumin seeds
1/2 Tsp Ground tumeric
1 Tsp Black peppercorns
2cm Piece fresh ginger (10g), grated or chopped coarsely
2 Cloves garlic, grated or chopped coarsely
Sunflower oil
400g White firm fish (e.g. monk fish fillets or blue-eye cutlets), cubed
2 Medium brown onions, sliced thinly (hald moon)
1 1/2 Tsp Black mustard seeds
4 Dried or fresh curry leaves
1 Tsp Samabal oelek
1 Tsp Sweet chili sauce
180ml Water
1 Tsp Organic chicken stock powder
The juice of 2 limes
1 Tbs Fish sauce (or to taste - I added 5 Tbs)

Method:
1. Using a small pan, dry fry the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and tumeric until fragrant, be careful not to burn them.
2. Form a paste by crushing the peppercorns, ginger and garlic with pestle and mortar.
3. Heat some oil in a large frying pan, pan-fry the fish fillet until cooked and lightly brown. Remove the fish from the pan and keep the oil.
4. Add a little more oil, stir fry the onions, mustard seeds and curry leaves until the onion becomes lightly brown and translucid.
5. Add the fried spices, keep stirring until fragrant.
6. Then, add the wet paste, the sambal oelek and the chili sauce. Stir.
7. Dissolve the chicken stock powder in the water and add into the pan, then add in the lime juice and fish sauce.
8. Bring the mixture to boil and then add the fish back into the pan. Simmer for about 5 mins or until the fish is cooked.
9. Serve.

Remarks:
The original recipe didn't contain sambal oelek or sweet chili sauce. Instead you can add 1 red chili that has been seeded, chopped and crushed to a paste in the mortar and pestle.

Serving suggestions:
Serve with basmati rice or jasmine rice.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~ Curry Aigre De Poisson ~
Recette adaptée de " Discovering New Tastes And Rediscovering Long Lost Tastes" par Janet Ching.

Ingrédients:
1 CS de Graines de coriandre
2 CC de Graines de cumin
1/2 de CC de Curcuma en poudre
1 de CC de Graines de poivre noir
Un morceau de 2cm de Gingembre frais (10g), pelé et haché grossièrement
2 Gousses d'ail, hachées grossièrement
Huile de tournesol
400g de Poisson blanc à chair ferme (merlu ou beaudroie), coupé en gros cubes
2 Onions moyens, coupés finement en demi-lune
1 1/2 de CC de Graines de moutarde noires
4 Feuilles de curry fraîches ou sèches
1 de CC de Samabal oelek
1 de CC de Sweet chili sauce
180ml d'Eau
1 de CC de Bouillon de poule bio en poudre
Le jus de 2 limes
1 CS de Sauce de poisson (ou selon goût- j'ai ajouté 5 CS)

Méthode:
1. Dans une petite poêle, griller à feu doux les graines de coriandre, de cumin et le curcuma afin que les arômes se développent. Faire attention à ne pas les brûler.
2. Dans un mortier, réduire le poivre, le gingembre et l'ail en une pâte homogène.
3. Chauffer une grande poêle et ajouter un peu d'huile, puis faire griller les cubes de poisson jusqu'à ce qu'ils soient dorés de chaque côté. Retirer le poisson du feu et le transférer dans une assiette. Mettre de côté.
4. Ajouter un peu d'huile dans la poêle et faire revenir les oignons, les graines de moutarde et les feuilles de curry, jusqu'à ce que l'oignon soit translucide et légèrement doré.
5. Ajouter les épices grillées et bien mélanger jusqu'à ce qu'un parfum s'en dégage.
6. Ajouter la pâte (ail, gingembre et poivre), le sambal oelek et la sweet chili sauce. Mélanger.
7. Dissoudre le bouillon dans l'eau et l'ajouter à la poêle, puis faire de même avec le jus de lime et la sauce de poisson.
8. Porter à ébullition et ajouter le poisson, puis laisser mijoter pendant 5 minutes ou jusqu'à ce que le poisson soit cuit.
9. Servir.

Remarques:
La recette originale ne contient pas de sambal oelek ou de sweet chili sauce. Vous pouvez les remplacer pas un piment rouge qui a été au préalable nettoyé, haché et réduit en une pâte dans le mortier.

Idées de présentation:
Servir avec du riz thaï ou du riz basmati rice.

THE LAST AUTUMN DAY

Although winter has arrived one month earlier, today I want to share with you some of the last pictures I took while it was still looking very autumn-like.

On that very day (2 weeks ago) the air was very warm and the sky was azure blue. The trees had lost most of their leaves but an orangy-red hue was still to be seen. A few days later, it had disappeared and not long after the first snow was falling on the plains.

As the sunset was spectacular, we decided to go out for a walk around the fields. The sceneries were mindblowing, the light was delightfully golden and a magic atmosphere surrounded us. At that very moment, it seemed all our problems faded away...

ENGADINER CROSTATA - THE DARING BAKERS

As incredible as it sounds, the end of November is already here. Another month has passed and yet another Daring Bakers’ challenge has been made. Now it's time to let the whole world admire our creations...

The 2010 November Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Simona of "Briciole" who chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make "Pasta Frolla" for a "Crostata". She used her own experience as a source, as well as information from Pellegrino Artusi’s "Science In The Kitchen And The Art Of Eating Well".

When I learnt that we were going to make a "Crostata", an Italian baked dessert tart, and that we were free to fill it in whichever way we wanted I was really excited and was looking froward to play the wizard in the kitchen. After some thinking and research, I came up with a marvelous idea. I was going to bake an "Engadiner Crostata", a tart lined with "Pasta Frolla" (sweet Italian shortcrust pastry) and garnished with a caramelized walnut filling that is generally used when preparing the traditional "Engadiner Nusstorte".

"Engadiner Nusstorte" (also called "Bündner Nusstorte") is a Swiss walnut and toffee pie from Engadin in Graubünden with a two-piece sweet crust (a little similar to the American "Pecan Pie"). It is my very favorite dish from my childhood and it's still something I cannot think about without drooling uncontrollably or eating without reaching the seventh sky. As far as I can remember I have always cherished that divine speciality.

My adulation for this mouthwatering pastry can be traced back to my early years (between age 4-10). When I was a kid, although I was more used to go out for 35kms hikes in the Jura mountains during the weekend, my parents also liked taking peaceful walks around Geneva and it's surroundings (lakeside, botanical garden & Pregny Chambésy). On such occasions we stopped at the Château De Pentes restaurant which is situated in a big park with an old manor house - originally a 14th century fortified mansion. The place is idyllic as it has a plunging view over Lake Geneva and one can see the French Alps as well as the Mont Blanc when the weather is stunning - no wonder romantics such as Mary Shelly or Lord Byron liked that place. There we had a drink and enjoyed a rewarding sugary treat. Along with my hot Ovomaltine I never failed to order a slice of the most luscious "Engadiner Nusstorte". Eating it felt like paradize and nothing could have made me more happy. It was probably one of my very first and most unforgettable foodie memories ever.

Unfortunately, as I grew up that habit faded away and then we stopped going there for Saturday teatime. As all good things have an end, that meant no more homemade "Engadiner Nusstorte" for me. Of course I could still buy it from our local Migros supermarket, but as much as it was enjoyable there was no way it was comparable to the one of my youth. And even if my mother cooked and baked a lot that is one tart she has never made. So, I had to wait until I met my "Bündner" (from canton Graubünden in Swiss Germany) boyfriend to finally have access to the authentic goodie again...

I may be quite an audacious baker and cook, yet until today I have never trusted myself to tackle that confection as I had the impression that the filling was kind of tricky to prepare. As usual, I was terribly wrong and underestimated my skills. It was extremely painless to make and totally straightforward (at the condition that you feel comfortable while working with caramel). It's texture and flavor was a complete success as I didn't fail to recreate the "real thing". It was just as it should be, no more no less.

Putting together the pastry was plain simple and not fussy at all, but the act of rolling it was shear displeasure and an absolute calamity. No matter how cold it was or how much I had floured the parchment paper the goddamn pastry inevitably HAD to stick to it and behave in a very uncooperative manner. Darn I hate making "Pasta Frolla" for that reason! Anyway, I was able to place it in the pan and make it look presentable. It did get slightly torn in the process but I repaired the damage done while unsticking it from the baking sheet and then everything was ok.

My "Engadiner Crostata" ended up looking flawlessly beautiful and made me feel very proud of myself. The buttery and flaky sweet shortcrust pastry combines perfectly together with the strongly caramelly, delightfully walnutty and moreish filling. That pairing is so scrumptious and sinfully good that it'll make you grow devil horns!

~Engadiner Crostata ~

Preparation time:
The following times are approximate, as the time depends on your dexterity to cut the butter and work the dough (which should not be overworked) and your familiarity with the rolling pin.

. Preparing pasta frolla with a food processor takes 10-15 minutes
. Allow the pasta frolla to chill thoroughly - two hours minimum
. Making crostata with pastry cream requires the time to make the filling

Equipment required:
. Bowls, as needed
. Fork
. Knife
. Bench (or pastry) scraper
. Rolling pin
. Pastry brush
. 9 or 9.5-inch (23-24 cm) fluted round tart pan with removable bottom, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) high. (Note: If you don't have a tart pan with a removable bottom, don’t worry! You can make crostata using a 9-inch cake pan or even a 9-inch pie plate.).

PASTA FROLLA

Ingredients:
1/2 Cup minus
1 tablespoon (105ml, 100g, 3 ½ oz) Superfine sugar (see Note 1) or a scant 3/4 Cup (180ml, 90g, 3 oz) of Powdered sugar
1 and 3/4 Cup (420ml, 235g, 8 1/4 oz) Unbleached all-purpose flour
A Pinch of salt
1 Stick (8 tablespoons/4 oz./115g) Cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 Tsp Pure vanilla paste
1 Large egg + 1 Large egg yolk, lightly beaten in a small bowl

Method For The "Dough":
1. Put sugar, flour, salt, and lemon zest in the food processor and pulse a few times to mix.
2. Add butter and pulse a few times, until the mixture has the consistency of coarse meal.
3. Empty food processor's bowl onto your work surface.
4. Make a well in the center of the mounded flour and butter mixture and pour the beaten eggs into it (reserve about a teaspoon of the egg mixture for glazing purposes later on – place in the refrigerator, covered, until ready to use).
5. Use a fork to incorporate the liquid into the solid ingredients, and then use your fingertips.
6. Knead lightly just until the dough comes together into a ball.
7. Shape the dough into a flat disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Place the dough in the refrigerator and chill for at least two hours (You can refrigerate the dough overnight).

WALNUT FILLING

Ingredients:
250g Castor sugar
330ml Double cream
4 Tbs Honey
300g Shelled walnuts, chopped coarsely
A pinch salt

Method:
1. In a clean pan, add the sugar and heat it. When the sugar is starting to melt stir constantly with a whisk or wooden spoon. When all sugar crystals have melted and the liquid is a medium-dark amber color, then your caramel is ready.
2. Add the nuts and honey, stir and incorporate the cream.
3. Let the mixture simmer for a few minutes (5-8 minutes) and remove from the heat.
4. Let cool the filling.

PUTTING THE TART TOGETHER

Method:
1. Heat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC/gas mark 4).
2. Take the pasta frolla out of the fridge, unwrap it and cut away 1/4 of the dough. Reserve this dough to make the lattice top of the crostata. Refrigerate this dough while you work on the tart base.
3. To help roll the crostata dough, keep the dough on top of the plastic wrap that you had it wrapped in. This can help rolling the dough and can also help when transferring the dough to your pan. You can also use parchment paper for this. However, you can also roll the dough directly on a work surface if you prefer. Lightly dust the top of the dough and your work surface (if you’re rolling directly on a work surface) with flour. Keep some flour handy to dust the dough as you go alon g. If the dough is very firm, start by pressing the dough with the rolling pin from the middle to each end, moving the rolling pin by a pin's width each time; turn the dough 180 degrees and repeat; when it softens, start rolling. Roll the dough into a circle about 1/8th inch (3 mm) thick.

4. If you used the plastic wrap or parchment paper as rolling surface, flip dough over the pan, centering it, and delicately press it all around so the corners are well covered. Peel away the plastic wrap. Trim the excess dough hanging over the edges of the pan. Press the remaining dough around the border into the sides of the pan making sure the border is an even thickness all the way around.

5. Prick the bottom of the dough with a fork in several places. Take out of the fridge the reserved pasta frolla you had cut away earlier. Roll it with your pin and cut into strips or use cookie cutters to make small shapes (this is not traditional, but it looks cute); or roll with your hands into ropes.
6. Cover the bottom of the crostata crust evenly with the walnut filling.
7. Use the prepared strips or rolls of dough to make a lattice over the surface, or decorate with the cut shapes.
8. Brush the border and strips of dough with the reserved beaten eggs. You can add a drop or two of water to the beaten eggs if you don’t have enough liquid.
9. Put the tart in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. After 35 minutes, check the tart, and continue baking until the pastry is of a nice golden hue and the filling looks set. (Note: Every oven is different).
10. When done, remove the tart from the oven and let cool. If you have used a tart pan with a removable bottom, then release the tart base from the fluted tart ring. Make sure the tart is completely cool before slicing and serving.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Etant donné que la recette est un peu longue, je n'ai malheureusement pas pu faire une traduction française de ce billet et je m'en excuse auprès de tous mes amis lecteurs et blogueurs francophones!

C'est pourquoi je vous suggère de vous rendre sur le blog mentionné ci-desso us. Vous y trouverez cette recette en version française.

Vous trouverez la recette pour la "Garniture Aux Noix" ici (sans oublier d'utiliser 250g de sucre cristallisé, 300g de noix, 330ml de Crème double, 4 CS de miel liquide et une pincée de sel).

Recette pour la "Pasta Frolla" sur les deux blogs canadiens suivants:
Chez Isa de "Les Gourmandises d'Isa" (Canada)
Chez Vibi de "La Casserole Carrée" (Canada)

AMAZING VIEWS FROM RUSSIN

After having walked to Dardagny and had a good look around, we decided to go back to Russin where we would take the RER (regional) train back to the central train station, Geneva Cornavin...

But we did not want to go back home without having another peek at that quaint village and it's surroundings. It is such a lovely place that I no desire to leave without taking a more in-depth tour of it. No matter how small it is there are surprises waiting for you every time you turn a corner or enter a new street.

Despite the strong wind blowing and the biting cold, it was such a clear and splendid day that it would have been a pity not to profit from the stunning view as well as landscapes that were to be admired at that very moment. The Frecnh Alps were obcenely visible and the Mont Blanc was standing proud between the small and the big Salève (see picture n°2 from the top). When such a spectacle offers itself to your eyes, you have to stare with amazment no matter how many times you've seen it all!

SMOKED HADDOCK & GRUYÈRE TARTLETS

I make no secret of the fact that I am a big supporter of English specialities and get mad every time I have to read or hear the moronic comments of ignorant people who have the guts to bring British gastronomy down. That irritates me to the highest point as most of the time they don't know what they are talking about and sheepishly follow the false propoganda regarding that country's food...

I mean, Great Britain has proved to have amazing chefs, shown the world that bad food can only be blamed on careless and inexperienced "cooks" and not on tradition (there is no bad food only bad cooks). When will certain individuals stop smirking at the word association "British Cuisine"? England not only has wonderful produces, but also an ancient cooking wisdom so it's about time that the above-mentioned folks put an end to those myths.

Being half-English and coming from a family of brilliant homecooks it is my duty to carry on those old eating customs and not lose my culinary patrimony that is so dear to me and perpetuate my link to that island. It is for that reason that I am a big fan of beautiful magazines such as Good Food, Delicious and Jamie which offer hundreds of gorgeous recipes every month.

While browsing through one of my Good Food magazines a particular Gordon Ramsay recipe caught my attention. His "Haddock & Gruyère Tartlets" looked so scrumptious. I had to make them as soon as possible.

Smoked haddock (made with either cod or haddock which is partially boned & lightly salted/in Scotland known under the name of "Finnan Haddie") has always been a produce I've enjoyed when I was in England. I remember that my grandmother bought it from a fish seller who travelled around with his van and sold extremely fresh goods (the fishes were still swimming in the sea no more than 3-4 hours before) out of the back of his truck. Once a week he stopped in front of my grandparents' stone cottage, honked and happily chatted with us while presenting his fantastic choice of goods . He had the most amazing fishes I have ever eaten.

Thankfully since I live extremely close to the French border (a few meters away) it is possible for me to buy smoked haddock from the Casino supermarket in Gaillard, Haute-Savoie. Although the French smoked haddock is a little dryer, a lot smokier, less plump/thick, dyed with annatto and seems to be made with whiting (and not cod nor haddock like it's English counterpart) I am already very grateful to find it in stores as it nostalgically reminds me of my holidays in Belper, Derbyshire.

As usual, I took the liberty to adapt Gordon Ramsay's recipe and ommitted to prebake the pastry and didn't serve my tartlets with a poached egg, but a bunch of arugula/rocket instead. I was really happy with the results as my "Haddock & Gruyère Tartlets" were as pretty as on the Good Food pictures and tasted just divine.

The pastry (my recipe) was delightfully flaky and beautifully golden, the filling was very flavorful and the lighty mustardy Gruyère béchamel paired perfectly well with the smokiness and delicate fish aromas of the haddock, and the arugula added great nutty, spicy (peppery-mustardy) as well as warm notes. Definitely a dish I will make again!

~Haddock & Gruyère Tartlets ~
Recipe for the "Shortcrust Pastry" by Rosa@Rosa's Yummy Yums & recipe for the "Haddock & Gruyère Tartlets" adapted from Gordon Ramsay.

Makes 4x 12-14cm tartlets.

Ingredients For The "Shortcrust Pastry":
300g Plain white flour (no self-raising flour)
1 Tsp Fine sea salt (you can add 1/2 Tsp more if you like the taste of salt)
150g Unsalted butter (or 100g Unsalted butter & 50g Lard)
~80 ml Water
Ingredients For the "Tarts":
500g Shortcrust pastry (recipe above)
400g Smoked haddock with the skin
400ml Milk
2 Egg yolks
2 Tsp Mustard (Dijon, yellow, basic or English)
25g Unsalted butter
25g All-purpose flour
100g Mature AOC Gruyère, grated finely
100g Arugula (washed), to use as decoration

Method For The "Shortcrust Pastry":
1. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl/bassin.
2. Add butter and rub between the fingers until the mixture is flaky.
3. Pour in water, gradually, while continuously cutting and stirring with a knife. Stop adding water when the dough is stiff. It should not be sticky or wet. Gather up into a soft ball and place it in the fridge while you prepare the filling.
Method for the "Tarts":
1. Put the haddock in a medium saucepan and cover with the milk. Season the milk with a little black pepper and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat. Set aside until cool enough to handle.
2. Remove the fish from the milk and strain the milk into a jug.
In medium pan, melt the butter. When it has melted and is starting to sizzle, stir in the flour and cook until combined to a sandy consistency.
3. Gradually stir in the poaching milk, mixing well after each addition.
4. Bring to a boil and let simmer over a low heat for 5 minutes until you have a smooth white sauce.
6. Remove the pan from the heat, then add the Gruyère and stir.
7. Break the haddock into large flakes into a medium bowl and throw away the skin and the bones.

8. Add the egg yolks and mustard to the haddock and stir in the cheese sauce (it should be at room temperature). Set aside.
9. Divide the pastry into 4, thinly roll out each piece, then cut out 4 circles big enough to line 4 x 12-14cm fluted tartlet pans. Press the pastry into the sides of the tin and roll the surface of the pan with your rolling pin so that the excess will fall away.
10. Preheat the oven to 200° C (400° F). Place the pans in the fridge to cool for 10 minutes, then remove from the fridge and prick the base with a fork.
11. Divide the filling between the tartlet cases, then bake for 25-30 minutes until the filling is puffed up and golden brown like cheese on toast, and the pastry is golden brown.
12. Remove from the oven and leave the tarts to cool slightly.
13. Decorate with the arugula (on top).

Remarks:
Always lift the flour out of the bowl while rubbing; it makes the butter/flour mixture airy.
Be careful not to add too much water as the pastry should not be stick to the touch.
While mixing the water to the flour/butter mixture never work the pastry like a bread dough, otherwise you would end up with a stiff, hard and elastic pastry.
You can replace the Gruyère by AOC Appenzeller or AOC Vacherin Fribourgeois
The filling can be made a day ahead and chilled.
The tarts can be made several hours ahead and eaten at room temperature or slightly reheated. Don't store in the fridge, or the pastry will get soggy.

Serving suggestions:
Serve the tartlets warm from the oven.
You can top it with a poached egg and chives or accompany them with a salad (lamb's lettuce).

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~ Tartelettes Au Haddock Et Au Gruyère ~
Recette pour la "Pâte Brisée" par Rosa@Rosa's Yummy Yums & recette pour les "Tartelettes Au Haddock Et Au Gruyère" adaptée de Gordon Ramsay.

Pour 4 tartelettes de 12-14cm de diamètre.

Ingrédients pour la "Pâte Brisée":
300g de Farine blanche/fleur
1 CC de Sel de mer fin (ajouter 1/2 CC si vous aimez votre pâte un peu salée)
150g de Beurre non-salé, coupé en petit dés (ou 100g de beurre + 50g de saindoux)
~80ml d'Eeau très froide ou assez afin que la pâte forme une boule
Ingrédients pour les "Tartelettes":
500g de Pâte brisée (recette au dessus)
400g de Haddock fumé avec la peau
400ml de Lait
2 Jaunes d'oeufs
2 CC de Moutarde (Dijon, Thomy, américaine, forte anglaise ou douce)
25g de Beurre non-salé
25g de Farine blanche
100g de Gruyère AOC mature, râpé finement
Une poignée de roquette pour décorer

Méthode pour la "Pâte Brisée":
1. Tamiser la farine et le sel dans un bol moyen.
2. Ajouter le beurre et frotter la farine et le beurre entre les doigts afin d'obtenir un mélange qui ait la texture sabloneuse.
3. Verser l'eau, graduellement, tout en mélangeant bien (n'ajoutez plus d'eau quand la pâte aura atteint la bonne consistance/ni trop mouillée, ni trop collante). Former une boule puis la mettre au frigo pendant que vous préparez la garniture.
Méthode pour les "Tartes":
1. Mettre le haddock dans une casserole et le recouvrir avec le lait. Assaisonner le lait avec un peu de poivre noir et porter à ébullition, puis éteindre le feu. Mettre de côté et laisser refroidir de manière à pouvoir manipuler le poisson avec les mains.
2. Sortir le poisson du lait et verser le lait dans un pot tout en le filtrant.
Dans une casserole moyenne, faire fondre le beurre. Une fois fondu et quand il commence à grésiller, ajouter la farine et bien mélanger afin que le tout soit homogène et ait une texture sabloneuse.
3. Graduellement, verser le lait (dans lequel le haddock à cuit). Mélanger après chaque ajout.
4. Porter à ébullition, puis laisser mijoter à feu doux pendant 5 minutes jusqu'à obtention d'une sauce crémeuse et assez épaisse.
6. Enlever la casserole du feu, puis incorporer le Gruyère tout en remuant.
7. Emietter le haddock (morceaux pas trop petits) et jeter la peau et les arrêtes.

8. Ajouter les jaunes d'oeufs et la moutarde, puis la béchamel au Gruyère (à temp. ambiante) et mélanger le tout.

9. Diviser la pâte en 4 et l'étaler afin de pouvoir couper en cercles assez grands pour foncer les moules à tartelettes de 4 x 12-14cm. Une fois cela fait, se débarasser de l'excédent de pâte.
10. Préchauffer le four à 200° C. Mettre les moules au frigo pendant 10 minutes, puis les retirer du frigo et les piquer avec une fourchette.

11. Remplir chaque tartelette avec de la garniture, puis cuire les tartelettes pendant 25-30 minutes jusqu'à ce que la garniture et la pâte soient joliment dorées (suffisement cuitent).
12. Sortir les tartelettes du four et les laisser refroidir légèrement avant de servir.
13. Decorer avec de la roquette.

Remarques:
Soulevez toujours la farine lorsque vous la frottez avec le beurre: ç a apporte de l'air au mélange.
Faites bien attention de ne pas ajouter trop d'eau à votre pâte. Elle ne doit pas être collante.
Pendant que vous mélangez l'eau au mélange farine/beurre, ne la travaillez pas telle une pâte à pain, autrement votre pâte sera dure, élastique et pas manipulable du tout car vous aurez libéré le gluten contenu dans la farine.
Le Gruyère peut être remplacé par de l'Appenzeller AOC ou du Vacherin Fribourgeois AOC.
La garniture peut être faite le jour avant et mise au frigo.
Les tartelettes peuvent être cuites quelques heures à l'avance et mangées à température ambiante ou être réchauffées.
Ces tartelettes ne doivent pas être conservées au frigo car elles deviendront toutes molles et humides.

Idées de présentation:
Servir les tartelettes chaudes.
Vous pouvez aussi déposer un oeuf poché sur la tartelette (milieu) et saupoudrer avec un peu de ciboulette ou manger vos tartelettes avec une bonne salade (mâche).