ENGLISH FRUIT LOAF - CAKE ANGLAIS AUX RAISINS SECS ♥ A GUEST POST FOR BEN AT "WHAT'S COOKING MEXICO?"

In life, I look for miscellanous things that capture my attention, satisfy my curiosity, satiate my hunger for novelty, inspire me and are exceptional. I am not fond of what is mainstream, déjà-vu, bland, characterless, not intellectually stimulating or challenging, so when it comes to the blogs I follow and the people behind them, I apply exactly the same rule.

And speaking about uniqueness and captivatigness, What's Cooking Mexico? is hard to beat. This marvelously exotic site is one of a kind and stands out from the crowd. It is like a paradisiac and welcoming island in the middle of the ocean where it feels good to go as you never fail to spend some relaxing as well as quality moments there.

This Mexico City native is passionate about mouthwatering fares and his country's versatile cuisine. He knows how to fascinate you with his detailed and informative articles that combine history and anthopology, delightfully colorful pictures, traditional recipes and mouthwaterringly fresh, refined, spicy and vibrant dishes. A blog that deserves much recognition.

Having been a big fan of Ben's extraordinary work and buoyant personality since 2008, it is with much pleasure that I have accepted to share my thoughts with his readers and write a guest post for him today. How could I possibly refuse such an opportunity?!

Muchas gracias querido amigo!!!

Tastes are made, not born. 
- Mark Twain 

Taste cannot be controlled by law.
- Thomas Jefferson

 It is interesting to see how our culinary inclinations can change when we grow up and reach our prime, and how certain foods we used to dislike as a child can suddenly appeal to us. Although our soul doesn’t vary during the whole course of our terrestrial existence, we never cease to evolve physically and mentally. Some things are meant to stay the same while others are intended to undergo slight or drastic alterations…

I like to think that, similarly to rare wine, individuals get refined and more subtle/complex with time. The base will everlastingly remain, but it will considerably improve and ripen during the interval between birth and death. As with long-term cellering alcohols, the maturation and quality of the finished product depend on a few important factors such as environmental conditions, its pedigree and the care with which this process has been taken out.

A man's palate can, in time, become accustomed to anything.

- Bonaparte, Napoleon

Not only do our brains go through various transmutations, but also our taste buds and gastronomical repertoire. Our bodies alter constantly, so it is quite understandable that our gustatory cells also get modified and go through major evolutions, thus affecting our feeding habits and transforming us into moody eaters.

Because I was raised in a non-snobby gourmet family who taught me to be thankful for what goes into my stomach, educated my palate by offering me a varied diet, encouraged me to be a daring epicurean and hated routine at the table, the toddler that I was, was fairly uncomplicated and adventurous. I complied to their eclectic nourishing practices without making a fuss or yammering. Everything my parents put on my plate was gulibly swallowed. Not entirely finishing the contents of my platter was not acceptable ]...[ 

So, if that short introduction made your mouth water and your tastebuds tingle, tickled your curiosity and gave you the urge to read my article, then please hop on over to What's Cooking Mexico? in order to learn more about this "Fruit Loaf", get a glimpse of my pictures, discover my recipe and pay a visit to the lovely Ben.

Etant donné que beaucoup de mes lecteurs francophones ne comprennent pas forcément l'anglais et que malheureusement peu d'entre-eux auront la chance de lire mon billet invité et dernier article en date sur le merveilleux blog What's Cooking Mexico? qui appartient au tentueux blogeur mexicain Ben, je me suis permise de traduire la recette qui y figure afin que vous puissiez aussi en profiter car je pense qu'elle pourra vous intéresser (vous pouvez tout de même y jeter un coup d'oeil car ses recettes sont vraiment passionnantes et mon article contient d'autres images que celles exposées ici).

J'espère que mon "Cake Anglais Aux Raisins Secs" vous plaira car c'est une succulente spécialité British qui nous vient tout droit du Lake District (dans le Cumbria) et dont je me suis enamourée dernièrement.

Comme vous le savez déjà, de part mes racines anglaise je suis une fervente défenseuse de la cuisine et culture britannique qui, à mon sens, est extraordinairement unique, si versatile, terriblement réconfortante, fabuleusement savoureuse, humble et qui n'est en aucun cas insipide, fade, peu délicate ou inintéressante comme le prétendent certaines personnes mal-attentionnées et à l'esprit étroit. Ce cliché est vieillissant, dépassé de mode et plus d'actualité...

Cake Anglais Aux Raisins Secs

Recette adpatée de “The National Trust Farmhouse Cookbook” par Laura Mason.

Pour 1 pain de 900g ou 2 pains de 450g chacun.

Ingrédients:
300ml de Thé noir fort, chaud
450g de Raisins secs (sultanines, raisins de Smyrne ou/et de Corinthe)
350g de Farine
2 1/2 CC de Poudre à lever
1 1/2 CC de Mixed spice (voir remarques)
1/2 CC de Sel de mer fin
175g de Sucre brun clair fin
2 Gros (63g) Œufs, battus
3 CS de Lait
1/2 CC d’Extrait de vanille pure

Méthode:
1. La veille, versez le thé chaud sur les fruits secs et les laisser macérer.
2. Le lendemain, préchauffer le four à 170 ° C (325 ° F).
3. Graisser et tapisser le fond de votre (vos) moule(s) à cake rectangulaire(s).
4. Dans le bol de votre batteur, mélanger ensemble la farine, la poudre à pâte, mélange d'épices, le sel et le sucre.

5. Ajouter les fruits macérés (avec le thé), les œufs, le lait et la vanille. Bien mélanger pendant environ 20 secondes, jusqu'à ce que le mélange ressemble à une pâte à gâteau.
6. Verser la pâte dans le(s) moule(s) à cake et faire cuire au milieu du four pendant environ 1 1/2 à 2 heures (ou environ 1h10 pour les deux cakes), ou jusqu'à ce qu'un cure-dent inséré au milieu du cake en ressorte propre.
7. Laisser refroidir dans le moule.

Remarques:
Pour préparer votre mixed spice maison, mélanger ensemble 1 CS de cannelle moulue, 1 CS de coriandre moulue, 1 CC de muscade moulue, 1/2 CC de gingembre moulu, 1/4 CC de tout-épice moulu et 1/4 de CC de clous de girofle moulus.

Ce cake est meilleur lorsque consommé un ou deux jours après sa préparation (bien l’emballer dans du film plastique) et peut aussi être congelé (3 mois maximum).

Idées de présentation:
Couper le cake en tranches assez épaisses et les beurrer généreusement.
Servir avec l'heure du déjeuner et du thé ou même comme dessert et accompagner d’une bonne tasse de thé.

WELSH CAKES - GÂTEAUX GALLOIS

Feasting is also closely related to memory. We eat certain things in a particular way in order to remember who we are. Why else would you eat grits in Madison, New Jersey?
- Jeff Smith 'The Frugal Gourmet Keeps the Feast' (1995)

Ponder well on this point: the pleasant hours of our life are all connected by a more or less tangible link, with some memory of the table.
- Charles Pierre Monselet (1825-1888)

There are some memories which we simply cannot forget or erase. They stay forever inked in our brains and branded in our heart, no matter what happens to us in life or how we feel now about the people they imply...

My mother and father are awfully manipulative, considerably messed up, highly harmful, terrifyingly tyrannic and disfunctional, but although I have not spoken to those two beings since eight years and I don't regret cutting off all contact with them (the only solution left for me if I wanted to get healthy again, to maintain my sanity as well as to reclaim my independence), certain past events just can't be washed away that easily, especially if they are enjoyable and linked to food - one of my biggest pleasures and weaknesses.

I might not have been blessed with selfless, non-narcissic, affectionate and dedicated parents who had a healthy relationship with one another or their children and who were capable of ridding themselves from their demons, yet I have to admit that regardless of all the stuff they have put me through and how much they have hurt me, treated me disrespectfully, caused me to doubt myself, brought me to my knees, supressed my self-confidence, transformed me into a willing "slave", vampirized me and deeply bruised my ego, soul as well as body, I still recall the rare and happy moments when what was left of their kind nature transpired through the thick veil of toxic poisoning that kept them emprisoned in frustration, hate and affliction.

Being a person who prefers to dwell on the positive side of things instead of choosing to get galvanized by negative thoughts, I cherish those cheerful and peaceful times and try not to focus on events that caused me a lot of pain and distress even if I know I'll never be able to obliterate them totally from my mind. Their hurtful legacy has marked me for the rest of my existence and there's nothing I can do about that, nonetheless, even if they didn't bring me up conventionally I have to point out that, at least, they have taught me to cultivate a fervor for quality fare and fine dining. This passion later turned into a serious hobby to which I am a 110% dedicated and which I need to survive. I am grateful for this heritage as it has got me through the tough periods in my existence (read article on that subject here).

It seems many emotionally handicapped people show their feelings for their kids by feeding them like kings. It is their way of expressing their emotions and thoughts. I guess it is for that reason that eating is often associated with well-being and is quite regressive. In my case, I know that what graced my plate never failed to bring a smile on my face and had the same effect on me as the warm kisses on the cheeks or an affectionate hugs I sadly never received and always dreamt of getting - until today, it is a mystery whether they truly love me or not.

For instance, I will always remember coming back home from school to an apartment smelling gorgeously of homemade dishes and freshly baked goods that my mum had been preparing while I was arduously studying. This filled me with joy and lifted my spirits. A breath of fresh air after a hard day of learning in an environment that was quite depressing for the outsider and social misfit that I was. Food transported me to another world and had a strong impact on my mood - it still does nowadays.

There was one sweet chow I particularly liked to find on the kitchen table when I got home in the afternoon: "Welsh Cakes", a wonderful speciality which hails from Wales in the UK. I can't think of something more soothing and addictive than those round doughy delights. One little bite of them babies was enough to make me forget my exam stress and the fact that I was singled out by my peers and didn't have many friends. As if by magic, all my problems vanished and I was overwhelmed with pure contentment.

A genial hearth, a hospitable board, and a refined rusticity.
- William Wordsworth

Unlike other patisserie products, "Welsh Cakes" are never baked in an oven. Actually, they are very shortly cooked on a bakestone, a hot plate or in a heavy metal pan. This humble confection is made from butter (or lard and margarine when it comes to the cheap version), self-raising flour (or plain flour to which baking powder has been added), castor sugar, currants, eggs as well as a little milk and salt. They are a variant of the flat griddle-breads and scones found throughout the western and northern parts of Britain, though they are flatter and a lot denser in mass and texture than the latter.

In the past, "Pice Ar Y Maen" (Welsh for "cake on the stone", also called "Cacennau Cri") were fried in a cast-iron skillet or in a kind of Dutch oven (three-sided tin oven) placed in front of the flames of the kitchen fire. At this time, yeast was used as the raising agent as baking powder appeared only after the mid 19th century. Each family prepared them slightly differently and had their own secret formula which was passed from down to daughters (some included honey, mace, cinnamon, nutmeg, currants or even ginger).

"Welsh Cakes" are lusciously soft and humid on the inside, delightfully crispy on the outside and have a nice chewy touch thanks to the moistened dried fruits. It is recommended to eat them while they are fresh and still warm as it is then that they are at their best. Unless you have tasted that artisan deliciousness, you'll never be able to imagine how fabulous it is or to understand why the Welsh folk venerate this afternoon tea delicacy so much as it is quite incomparable.

As a matter of fact they are absolutely irresistible, incredibly ambrosial, gustatively fullfilling and so moreish in a manner only warm pastries can be. It is impossible not to stuff your face with them and end up exploding after having giddily swallowed your upteenth "Welsh Cakes" in a row. Once you start, there's no stopping you.

The recipe I am presenting today is based on the one that has been followed by both my granny and mama so, as you can imagine, it is very traditional and far from being recent. As a matter of fact, I bet it dates back to the early 50's. Of course, since I am a perfectionist and it is my habit to add my owm personalized touch to things, I fiddled with it in order to ameliorate and customize it a little by ajusting the quantity of milk used as well as by adding a few grams more sea salt and raisins.

This combination of homely ingredients and rich flavors is simply perfect. As a result, my "Welsh Cakes" are dangerously hooking and refined despite their modest origins. So, my question is the following: are you strong enough not to fall under their spell? Nah, I bet not and why bother resisting? You know you'd never win that battle!!

~ Welsh Cakes ~

Recipe by Rosa Mayland, April 2012.

Makes about 14-16 Welsh Cakes.

Ingredients:
225g (8oz) All-purpose flour

1 1/4 Tsp Baking powder

1/2 Tsp Fine sea salt
100g (4oz) Unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
50g (2oz) Castor sugar
60 g (2oz) Currants
1 Egg (63g)
4-5  Tbs (60-75ml) Milk

Peanut oil, for frying

Extra castor sugar for dusting (optional)

Method: 

1. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt together.

2. Rub in the butter.

3. Stir in the sugar and currants.
4. Beat the egg together with the milk.

5. Add this mixture to the one in the bowl and combine in order to obtain a ball of dough. Knead lightly.

6. Roll out the pastry until it is about 5 mm (1/4 inch) thick.

7. Cut into rounds with a 6cm (2.4 inches) fluted cutter and re-roll the trimmings.
8. Fry each pastry rounds in a moderately hot cast-iron pan or frying pan for about 2-3 minutes on each side, or until lightly browned.

9. Let cool on a rack or eat while still warm.

Remarks:
If you want your "Welsh Cakes" to have a spicy edge, then you can add  1/2 tsp mixed spice to the dry ingredients.

Serving suggestions:

Serve them warm or cold, plain or dusted with sugar, with butter or clotted cream and jam.

~ Gâteaux Gallois ~

Recette par Rosa Mayland, Avril 2012

Pour environ 14-16 Welsh Cakes.

Ingrédients:
225g de Farine
1 1/4 CC de Poudre à pâte/lever
1/2 CC de Sel de mer fin
100g de Beurre non-salé, coupé en petit cubes
50g de Sucre cristallisé
60g de Raisins secs foncés
1 Oeuf (63g)
4-5 CS (60-75ml) de Lait
Huile d'arachide, pour frire les gâteaux
Sucre cristallisé, pour saupoudrer les gâteaux

Méthode:
1. Mélanger la farine, la poudre à lever et le sel ensemble.
2. Ajouter le beurre et sabler du bout des doigts.
3. Incorporer le sucre et les raisins secs.
4. Battre l'oeuf avec le lait.
5. Ajouter le mélange liquide à celui dans le bol et bien incorporer à l'aide d'un couteau afin d'obtenir une boule de pâte. Pétrir très légèrement et rapidement.

6. Etaler la pâte à une épaisseur d'environ 5 mm.
7. Découper des cercles à l'aide d'un emporte-pièce cannelé de 6cm.
8. A feu moyen et dans un peu d'huile (1 CS), faire frire chaque rond de pâte dans une poêle pendant environ 2-3 minutes de chaque côté, ou jusqu'à ce que les cakes soient dorés.
9. Les faire refroidir sur une grille ou les manger lorsqu'ils sont encore chauds.

Remarques:
Si vous voulez que vos "Welsh Cakes" aient une saveur épicée, alors je vous recommande d'ajouter 1/2 CC de mixed spice au ingrédients secs (recette: 1 CS cannelle en poudre, 1 CC de coriandre en poudre 1 CC de noix de muscade en poudre, 1/2 CC de gingembre en poudre, 1/4 CC de tout épice en poudre et 1/4 de clous de girofle en poudre).

Idées de présentation:
Servir les Welsh cakes encore chaud ou seulement une fois refroidis.

Ils peuvent être mangés tels quels ou saupoudrés avec du sucre cristallisé ou encore avec de la confiture et du beurre/de la "clotted cream".

ITALIAN-STYLE CINNAMON & RAISIN BISCOTTI

"Biscotti" (pronounced "bee-scoat-tee") are relatively new to me. Actually, a few years ago (about 6 years ago) I had no clue what they were. That is quite understandable if you consider the fact that I've lived all my life in Switzerland and never travelled to Italy (I passed through that country when going to Greece, but I doubt that this can qualify for holidays) nor to America where this speciality is widespread...

I was introduced to these Italian cookies when I received James McNair and Andrew Moore's "Afternoon Delights" for my birthday in 2003. It was love at first sight. The very second I lay my eyes on the picture that illustrated their "Almond Biscotti" recipe I knew that I had to bake them immediately in order to satisfy my curiosity. Since then I have not seized being a big fan of this crispy treat.

Before I moved away from home and started cooking for myself, I had never really tasted any Italian pastry apart from "Amaretti Macaroons" and knew absolutely nothing about "Biscotti". Here in Switzerland, the only biscuits that can be compared to them are oven-dried brioche slices called "Zwiebacks". Although they taste more like sweet bread than cookies and are far from being as sweet or having an identical shape, I always enjoyed eating those delicious rusks.

The reason why I like "Biscotti" so much is because they remind me of "Zwiebacks" and bring back memories of my Vaudois Pépé & Mémé (grandpa & grandma) whom I lost long ago - my granny died at the age of 92 in 1992 and my granddad passed away at the age of 98 in 1998.

I will never forget the times my parents and I visited my grandparents in Champvent. Since we had no car, getting there was a real journey and it was so exciting for the kid I was. After having rode on the InterCity for a good 45 minutes we then arrived in the little city of Yverdon-les-Bains where we hopped on the cute scenic Yverdon-Sainte-Croix train which I was really fond of the bumpity bump sound that the wheels made and adored it's haunting hoots. This filled me with intense pleasure and send shivers down my spine. As it rushed speedily through the lush countryside (it was going so fast that we had to hold on tight to the bars), went through thick and dark forests and stopped in dainty stations, I could not have been a more happier girl. I felt like an adventurer on a mission in a far away land. This feeling grew even stronger when we stepped out of the train in the middle of nowhere in Essert-sous-Champvent. Our trip hadn't ended exactly. This location was situated at least 20 minutes by foot from our destination which meant that we still had to take a 2 kilometers hike through the fields in order to arrive in the village and finally step a foot in my grandparents' house.

In the good old days (in the 90's - that makes me sound old, I know...), Switzerland was a safe place to live and nobody used to lock themselves in (it is still quite secure, but not as much as before - now we have our share of extreme violence too). In the rural areas people even left their front door wide open during the summer. So, to enter my grandparents house there was no need to ring the doorbell or knock. We simply stepped in the corridor and were immediately welcomed by an ethereal smell of food and went straight to the kitchen where my grandmother, who was a brilliant cook, was preparing our 100% homemade lunch which generally consisted of a seasonal soup (onion soup, nettle soup, potato soup, etc...), a salad (homegrown lettuce or hand-picked dandelion leaves), either a stew ("Lapin A La Crème"/Rabbit in Sour Cream & Mustard Sauce - the rabbits were raised and butchered by my grandfather) a "rôti" (roast) or a "bouilli" (beef from which bouillon or soup has been made) and meringues with thick golden cream scraped from the top of the milk basin (until the 90's my grandparents bought all their cheese, milk and butter from the village dairy - just like in the past), canned sour cherries and Kirsch (I had that too and loved it eventhough I was a child. As you can see it didn't turn me into an alcoholic or kill me...).

After lunch both my grandparents had the habit of napping for about one hour after each meal (was it the key to their longevity?) and then getting on with their daily chores (housework and taking care of the garden). Generally, while they were working, we went out for long walks around the area which is considered to be Vaud's "granary" and abound in walking excursions as well as picturesque villages with Medieval manor houses and castles. The rustic Gros-de-Vaud landscapes are delightfully pastoral, so soft and inviting.

When we came back, we were always greeted by either a "Salée A La Crème" or a "Gâteau" (people in Vaud commonly use the term "Gâteaux" to describe "Tarts") made with homegrown fruits (berries of all kinds - check out my "Blackberry Tart", apples and rhubarb - not a fruit, I know). Our little trip had made us extremely hungry, so those freshly baked and mindblowingly ambrosial delicacies were accepted with much enthusiasm. My grandmother's pastries were some of the best I have ever eaten. My Mémé was an extraordinary homecook and baker who made amazing dishes from scratch, prepared to most gorgeous family-style "Cuisine Bourgeoise" (pronounce "kwee zeen boor jwaz" - it refers to plain, but good down-to-earth cuisine), taught my 20 years old mother the basics of cooking/baking and showed her how to put a meal together.

My grandmother might not have been a woman who expressed her feelings, but she was always generous when it came to filling our stomachs. I cannot recall having ever starved while staying at my gradparents' home. I guess it was her way of showing that she cared for us. As we all know, "love goes through the stomach"...

Sometimes, if I was craving more food in the afternoon, my grandmother gave me a few "Zwiebacks" to nibble on. Those were generally eaten for breakfast in place of bread, but as a child I preferred to snack on them. Since then, that item is closely linked to that period of my life.

So, in addition to awaking memories of my Mémé, "Biscotti" are nooks which also remind me of the Renaissance. I like to imagine that noble women and men dressed fashionably with romantic-looking custumes made of rich fabrics (silk, velvet and muslim) sat on their terrasses overlooking the fluid green hills of Tuscany and chattered courteously while dipping their crunchy crullers in Vin Santo. Just like the scene in a Botticelli fresco!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Biscotti" are also known as "Cantuccini" or "Biscotti Di Prato". They are supposed to hail from the city of Prato in Italy (similar cookies exist in France - "Croquignole" - and Spain - "Carquinyoli" -) and their name comes from the Medieval latin word "biscoctus" meaning "twice-baked/cooked". It seems that hundreds of years before being consumed by sailors and adventurers in the 15th century (both Marco Polo and Columbus are supposed to have brought "Biscotti" with them on their journeys), they were already being eaten by the Roman Legions. They were enjoyed by travellers of all kinds is because they had good keeping properties (they lasted for a long while without going bad).

At the origin, those crullers were flavored with aniseeds, but nowadays, many sweet and savory variants exist (chocolate, candied fruits, pumpkin, raisins/currants, dried cranberries, cheese, olives, herbs, nuts of all kinds, different types of flour, etc...). "Biscotti" are very popular in their country of birth, but are also much appreciated by cookie lovers all over Europe and the USA. Recently, they have become very trendy and it is not difficult to buy them from bakers, coffee shops or supermarkets anymore. Although they are all generally rocklike in texture, it is to be said that some of them vary in rigidity. The Italian "Biscotti" are harder and denser than their American cousins which are lighter are more tender, thus still being appropriate for dipping.

The recipe I have decided to publish today was adapted from "The Cookies Companion" by King Arthur Flour. Having not tested that many different "Biscotti" as I tend to use the same recipe over and over and being somebody who is an amateur of spices, I thought that a little change in the routine might be good, so it is all naturally that I was drawn towards KAF's "Italian-Style Cinnamon And Raisin Biscotti".

Despite the fact that one has to have healthy teeth to bite into this confection and feels a little like a horse champing on dry bread when masticating on it, it is nonethelss terribly addictive. The dreamlike aromas of cinnamon and vanilla blend perfectly well with the molassy flavor of the rasins, thus making those lightly sweet "Biscotti" extremely palatable.

A fabulous breakfast, teatime or evening treat that must be on every Easter table, especially if they are dunked into warm melted chocolate!

~ Italian-Style Cinnamon & Raisin Biscotti ~
Recipe adapted from "The Cookies Companion" by King Arthur Flour.

Makes about 14-16 biscotti.

Ingredients:
2 Large eggs
2/3 Cup (143g) Castor sugar
1/2 Tsp Baking powder
3/4 Tsp Fine sea salt
1 Tsp Pure bean paste (or pure vanilla extract)
2 Tsp Ground cinnamon
1 Cup (160g) Raisins
2 Cups (255g) Unbleached all purpose flour

Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 180° C (350°F) and lightly grease a baking sheet (or line with parchment or a silicon mat).
2. In a medium bowl, mix the cinnamon, raisins and flour together. Set aside
3. Combine the eggs, sugar, baking powder, salt and vanilla bean paste in the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on medium speed until the mixture is light in color and falls back into the bowl in ribbons if you lift up the beater blade.
4. Reduce the speed of the mixer to low and gradually add in the flour. Mix just until the flour is fully incorporated.
5. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet and shape it into a flat loaf (14 inches/35cm long and 2.5 inches/6cm large).

6.Bake for 25 minutes, then remove the baking sheet from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 170° C (325° F).

7. Allow the baked loaf to cool for about 15 minutes.
8. Mist the loaf lightly with water and let it rest for another 5 minutes (this will help to prevent it from cracking/crumbling when slicing).
9. Once the loaf has rested, transfer it to a cutting board and use a serrated knife to slice the biscotti (diagonally to produce long biscotti or horizentally if you want smaller biscotti).
10. Return the slices to the baking sheet (standing up) and bake for an additional 20 – 25 minutes.
11. Transfer the slices to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Remarks:
You can replace the raisins by other dried fruits or nuts (chopped coarsely).
If you wish, subsitute the cinnamon with any other spice of your choice.

Serving suggestions:
Eat for breakfast, teatime or as an in-between snack and accompany with a good capuccino, espresso, a small glass of Vin Santo or Porto.
You can also dunk them in melted chocolate.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~ Biscotti Italiens A La Cannelle Et Aux Raisins Secs ~
Recette adaptée du livre "The Cookies Companion" par King Arthur Flour.

Pour 14-16 biscotti.

Ingrédients:
2 Gros oeufs
143g Sucre cristallisé
1/2 CC de Poudre à lever
3/4 CC de Sel de mer fin
1 CC de Pâte de vanille pure (ou d'extrait de vanille pure)
2 CC de Cannelle en poudre
160g de Raisins secs
255g de Farine blanche

Méthode:
1. Préchauffer le four à 180° C et recouvrir une plaque de cuisson avec du papier sulfurisé ou avec un silpat.
2. Dans un bol moyen, mélanger ensemble la cannelle, les raisins et la farine. Mettre de côté.
3. Dans le bol d'un robot électrique réunir les oeufs, le sucre, la poudre à lever, le sel et la vanille. Battre à vitesse moyenne afin que le mélange soit pâle et retombe en rubans si on soulève le batteur.
4. Réduire la vitesse et ajouter la farine petit à petit. Mélanger (pas trop) jusqu'à ce que la farine soit complètement incorporée.
5. Mettre la pâte sur la plaque de cuisson et former en un rectangle de 35cm long et de 6cm de large.
6. Cuire pendant 25 minutes, puis sortir du four et réduire la température à 170° C.

7. Laisser le "pain" refroidir pendant environ 15 minutes.
8. Pulvériser de l'eau et le laisser reposer encore pendant 5 minutes supplémentaires (cela empêche le "pain" de craquer et de s'émietter pendant la découpe).
9. Une fois ce temps de repos respecté, placer le "pain" sur une planche à découper et couper en tranches avec un couteau bien éguisé (en diagonal pour obtenir des biscotti longs ou tel un cake/horizentalement si on désire des tranches plus courtes).
10. Placer les tranches sur la plaque (debout et pas couchées) et cuire pendant encore 20 – 25 minutes.
11. Faire refroidir complètement les tranches sur une grille métallique.

Remarques:
Vous pouvez remplacer les raisins par d'autres fruits secs ou des noix (coupés en morceaux grossiers).
Si vous le désirez, il vous est possible de remplacer la cannelle par l'épice (en poudre) de votre choix.

Idées de présentation:
Servir ces biscotti pour le déjeuner, à l'heure du thé ou comme en-cas et accompagner d'un capuccino, d'un espresso, d'un petit verre de Vin Santo ou de Porto.
Il vous est aussi possible de les tremper dans du chocolat fondu encore tiède.

DRESDNER CHRISTSTOLLEN - THE DARING BAKERS

The end of the month is here again and the moment has come for all of us Daring Bakers devotees to uncover a secret we have kept well-hidden for a few weeks. Of course, contrarily to most of my zealous colleagues and as it is my habit, I made my challenge at the very last moment (a special wink goes to Jamie at "Life's A Feast"!). This time though I executed it without stress despite the fact that Xmas was getting closer every day and I still had a lot to prepare...

The 2010 December Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Penny of "Sweet Sadie’s Baking" who chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make a "Dresdner Christstollen". She adapted a friend’s family recipe and combined it with information from friends, techniques from Peter Reinhart’s book and Martha Stewart’s demonstration.

"Dresndner Christstollen" is a bread-like fruitcake made with yeast, water, milk, flour, butter, salt, eggs, rum, vanilla, orange essence, orange and lemon zests, candied orange peel, candied citrus peel, raisins, cinnamon and sometimes also cardamom as well as marzipan. This traditional German speciality which is a little similar to the Italian "Panettone" or the Dutch "Kerststol" can be traced back to 1474. It is usually eaten during the Christmas holidays, hence the religious-oriented name (it is also called "Weihnachtsstollen", meaning "Christmas Stollen" in English). Originally it was called "Dresdner Striezel" - "Striezel" coming from the word "Strüzel" or "Stroczel", meaning "awaken" because it was an early-baked loaf of bread. It's unique shape is meant to represent the baby Jesus wrapped in swaddling clothes.

Germans baked "Stollen" loaves to honor princes and church dignitaries, and to sell at fairs and festivals. The very first of them were confectioned without milk or butter because the Catholic church didn't allow these ingredients during Advent. It was only until the mid 17th century that a papal proclamation allowed bakers to finally add milk and butter.

Nowadays it is still as popular as in the past. Although "Dresdner Christstollen" doesn't have roots in Switzerland we nontheless consume tons of that festive treat during the end of year festivities. It is so widely spread that you can buy it from every store and you'll find it on most tables. At home we always ate "Stollen", so now I cannot imagine celebrating Yuletide without serving that ambrosial goodie. It is so Xmas-like. Therefore, when I heard that we were asked to bake a "Stollen" for the December challenge I was really excited about that project and really looked forward to tasting the homemade version as until now I have never had the opportunity to make my own.

I more or less followed the recipe to the letter. I chose not to use candied cherries, but added a few more raisins. As I thought that almond flakes might totally disappear in the dough and would pass unnoticed if used in that form I decided to add slivered almond instead which I toasted. I also filled one of my loaves with some marzipan. Being a traditionalist, I absolutely wanted to shape my "Dresdner Christstollen" the classic way and didn't have the desire to give it the appearance of a wreath.

The result was highly satisfying. The recipe gave me two mammoth loaves that looked perfect and tasted just out of this world. My "Dresdner Christstollen" had just the right texture too. It was neither too heavy nor too light, the inside was pleasantly moist and melt-in-the-mouth and and the crust was super soft (there was nearly no difference with the inside). Flavor-wise they were exactly the way they should be: intensely fragrant, with delicate boozy, buttery, orangy, lemony, cinnamony and nutty notes, not to forget that thanks to the overnight proofing they also had a slightly sourdoughy aroma that was extremely pleasurable. There is only one negative remark I'll make though. In my opinion, the "Stollen" could have contained more raisins and mixed peel as I found there were a tad not enough fruits...

This homemade "Dresdner Christstollen" is so much better than store-bought ones and a lot cheaper, so I highly recommend you to get off your asses and start baking if you love this European delicacy!

~ Christmas Stollen ~
Recipe adapted from Penny's German friend who bakes Stollen every year, Peter Reinhart's "Bread Baker’s Apprentice" and Martha Stewart.

Makes two traditional shaped Stollen loaves.
Serves 10-12 people

Preparation time:
The following times are approximate. I suggest you gather and scale/weigh/measure (mise en place) all your ingredients before you begin mixing.

• Approximately 1 hour first stage – then rest overnight or up to 3 days
• 2 hours to warm up after refrigeration
• 15 minutes shaping
• 2 hours proofing
• 30-45 minutes baking Equipment required:
• Mixer with dough hook or strong arms and hands
• Mixing bowl
• Bowl to soak raisins
• Small saucepan
• Sheet of plastic or plastic wrap to cover when proofing
• Bench or pastry scraper (very handy for cutting dough and also cleaning work surface)
• Rolling pin
• Dough whisk can be handy but not necessary
• Pastry Brush
• A scale is really important to have when making bread so I strongly advise you to get one. You do not have to have one though. (would make a good Christmas gift!)
• Sheet Pan or round Pizza pan
• Parchment Paper Stollen Wreath

Ingredients:
1/4 Cup (60ml) Lukewarm water (110º F/43º C)
2 packages (4 1/2 Tsps/14 grams/1/2oz) Active dry yeast
1 Cup (240ml) Milk
10 Tbs (140g) Unsalted butter (can use salted butter)
5½ Cups (27oz/770g) All-purpose flour (Measure flour first, then sift + extra for dusting)
½ Cup (115g) Castor sugar
¾ Tsp (4.5g) Sea salt (if using salted butter there is no need to alter this salt measurement)
1 Tsp (6g) Gropund cinnamon
3 Large eggs, lightly beaten
Grated zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange
2 Tsps Pure vanilla extract
1 Tsp Lemon extract or orange extract
3/4 Cup (4 ¾oz/135g) Mixed peel
1 Cup (6oz/170g) Firmly packed raisins
3 Tbs (45ml) Dark rum
12 Red glacé cherries, roughly chopped (optional)
1 Cup (3.5oz/100g) Slivered almonds, lightly toasted
Melted unsalted butter for coating the wreath
Confectioners sugar for dusting wreath

Note:
If you don’t want to use alcohol, double the lemon or orange extract or you could use the juice from the zested orange.

Method For Making The "Dough":
1. In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the rum (or in the orange juice from the zested orange) and set aside.
2. Pour 1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water into a small bowl, sprinkle with yeast and let stand 5 minutes. Stir to dissolve yeast completely.
3. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup (240 ml) milk and 10 tablespoons (150 ml) butter over medium - low heat until butter is melted. Let stand until lukewarm, about 5 minutes.
4. Lightly beat eggs in a small bowl and add lemon and vanilla extracts.
5. In a large mixing bowl (4 qt/4 liters or in the bowl of an electric mixer with paddle attachment), stir together the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon, orange and lemon zests.
6. Then stir in (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) the yeast/water mixture, eggs and the lukewarm milk/butter mixture (This should take about 2 minutes. It should be a soft, but not sticky ball).
7. When the dough comes together, cover the bowl with either plastic or a tea cloth and let rest for 10 minutes.
8. Add in the mixed peel, soaked fruit and almonds and mix with your hands or on low speed to incorporate. Here is where you can add the cherries if you would like (Be delicate with the cherries or all your dough will turn red!).
9. Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mixing with the dough hook) to distribute the fruit evenly, adding additional flour if needed (The dough should be soft and satiny, tacky but not sticky). Knead for approximately 8 minutes/6 minutes by machine (The full six minutes of kneading is needed to distribute the dried fruit and other ingredients and to make the dough have a reasonable bread-dough consistency. You can tell when the dough is kneaded enough – a few raisins will start to fall off the dough onto the counter because at the beginning of the kneading process the dough is very sticky and the raisins will be held into the dough but when the dough is done it is tacky which isn't enough to bind the outside raisins onto the dough ball.).
10. Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling around to coat it with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
11. Put it in the fridge overnight (The dough becomes very firm in the fridge since the butter goes firm, but it does rise slowly… The raw dough can be kept in the refriger ator up to a week and then baked on the day you want.).

Shaping the Dough and Baking the Wreath:
1. Let the dough rest for 2 hours after taking out of the fridge in order to warm slightly.
2. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
3. Punch dough down, divide it into two pieces.
4. Pat into ovals.
5. For traditional stollen shape (video 1 & video 2), on a floured working surface roll out the dough to an oblong shape about 3 cm (1 1/5 inch) thick (The long sides should be bulging.). Fold in the long sides of the dough on top of each other. Now push in the dough lengthwise with your hands forming a stollen shape. Place the Stollen on your baking sheet.
6. Brush the dough with melted butter and cover loosely with plastic wrap.
7. Proof for approximately 2 hours at room temperature, or until about 1 1/2 times its original size.
8. Preheat oven to moderate 180°C (350° F) with the oven rack on the middle shelf.
9. Bake the stollen for 20 minutes, then rotate the pan 180 degrees for even baking and continue to bake for 20 to 30 minutes (The bread will bake to a dark mahogany color, should register 190°F/88°C in the center of the loaf, and should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom.). 10. Transfer to a cooling rack and brush the top with melted butter while still h ot.
11. Immediately tap a layer of powdered sugar over the top through a sieve or sifter.
12. Wait for 1 minute, then tap another layer over the first (The bread should be coated generously with the powdered sugar. Coat the stollen in butter and icing sugar three times, since this many coatings helps keeps the stollen fresh - especially if you intend on sending it in the mail as Christmas presents! The more rum and the more coatings of butter and sugar you use the longer it will store. The following is for the recipe as written and uses the 45 mls of rum and two coatings of butter and icing sugar.).
13. Let cool at least an hour before serving.

Storing:
When completely cool, store in a plastic bag or leave it out uncovered overnight to dry out slightly, German style.
The stollen tastes even better in a couple of days.

Serving suggestions:
Stollen is delicious with butter and a cup of tea.
It toasts superbly and can be used to make bread pudding.

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Etant donné que la recette est un peu longue, je n'ai malheureusement pas pu faire une traduction française de ce billet et je m'en excuse auprès de tous mes amis lecteurs et blogueurs francophones!

C'est pourquoi je vous suggère de vous rendre sur le blog mentionné ci-desso us. Vous y trouverez cette recette en version française.

Recette pour le "Dresdner Christstollen" sur les deux blogs canadiens suivants:
Chez Isa de "Les Gourmandises d'Isa" (Canada)
Chez Vibi de "La Casserole Carrée" (Canada)