CANNELÉS BORDELAIS - LAROUSSE CUISINE BOOK REVIEW

Book Review - Critique De Livre

I don't know if it's the same for you, but sometimes there are specialities I dream of making, yet for no apparent reason I never get to test them as fast as I wish. For example I have been dreaming of tasting and baking "Cannelés Bordelais" since the day I started blogging in 2005. I have been drooling over that French cake for long and every time I saw a post on that subject I promised myself to make them, but somehow never got to it (until lately). Finding the correct mold already took me a couple of years (Switzerland isn't a great place for amateur bakers) and then I needed a few months to finally get cracking. Well, I am known for being a big procrasitinator. I guess that is my problem... /// Je ne sais pas si vous êtes comme moi, mais beaucoup de fois je vois une spécialité que je désire tester et il me faut un certain temps avant de mettre la main à la pâte. Par example, ça fait un bon bout de temps (depuis que j'ai commencé à bloguer en 2005) que je salive à l'idée de faire des "Cannelés Bordelais" et que je me promets d'en préparer chaque fois que j'en vois sur vos blogs. Pourtant jusqu'à aujourd'hui je n'ai pas réussi à en confectionner. Il m'a déjà fallu plusieurs année pour dénicher le moule (en Suisse on est pas gâté lorsqu'il est question de matériel de cuisine), puis encore quelques mois avant de finalement me décider sauter le pas. Je suis une vraie procrastinatrice et je pense que c'est ça mon problème...

So, when the Editions Larousse kindly sent me their latest book "Petits Cannelés.... A Dévorer" I had no more excuse not to drag my sorry ass into the kitchen and whip up some cute cannelés. /// Alors quand Les Editions Larousse m'ont gentiment fait parvenir le livre"Petits Cannelés.... A Dévorer" (une de leurs récentes parutions), je n'avais plus d'excuse pour ne pas bouger mon popotin et m'activer à la création de cannelés.

Catherine Nicolas' dainty book contains gorgeous pictures and gives you the opportunity to prepare many different variations of that heavenly snack. Her 30 recipes for sweet, savory, classic and non-traditional cannelés (original recipe, kourabiedes-, cheesecake-, tapioca pudding-, pomme d'amour-, carrot cake-, chorizo polenta-, speck muffin-style cannelés, etc...) are very imaginative and pleasant. Whether you are a die-hard worshipper of the historic version or you are a more adventurous baker I'm pretty sure that you'll have fun creating those lovely petits fours which will meet a great success at your table when served for teatime, brunch or as an apperitive. /// Le mignon petit livre de Catherine Nicolas est merveilleusement illustré et nous donne la possibilité de réaliser multiples variations autour de ce délicieux gâteau. Les 30 recettes sucrées, salées, classiques et non-traditionnnelles qu'elle nous présente sont très imaginatives et séduisantes (cannelés d'amour, cannelés aux pruneaux, cannelés en pâte de fruits, cannelés en robe de chocolat, cannelés à la crème d'avocat, cannelés moelleux aux lardons, cannelés de chèvre aux courgettes). Que vous soyez un(e) grand(e) amateur(amatrice) du cannelé original ou que vous adorez la nouveauté je suis sûre que vous prendrez beaucoup de plaisir à créer ces petits fours qui seront les stars incontournables de tous vos cafés gourmands, brunches, goûters ou appéritifs.

For my part I decided to try her "Cannelés Bordelais" in order to put an end to my years of craving for that humble treat. Although this experiment proved me once again that my reasons for loathing those damn silicone pans (they stink, stick and my cakes always get squashed when I try to unmold them - the old-fashioned metal molds/pans work perfectly and never let me down) are grounded, I was nonetheless really happy with the end result. Even if my cannelés were quite fugly, they nonentheless tasted divine and had the most orgasmic of textures. /// Pour ma part, j'ai décidé d'essayer la recette pour les "Cannelés Bordelais" classiques afin de mettre fin à ces années passées à saliver devant les images de cette humble gourmandise. Bien que cette aventure m'ait encore une fois prouvé que ma haine contre les moules en silicone est fondée (ils puent, collent et mes gâteaux sont toujours écrasés lorsque je les éjecte du moule - les bons vieux moules métalliques ne me laissent jamais tomber), j'étais tout de même contente du résultat final. Mes cannelés étaient assez moches, mais cela ne les a pas empêché d'être divins et d'avoir une textures des plus orgasmiques.

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According to the legend, this treat dates back to the 17th century and was invented by nuns of the convent of The Annonciades (today, nuns of the convent of Mercy) in Bordeaux. Back then cannelés were called "canelas" or "canelons", were long thin cakes wound around a stick ("canne" in french, hence the name) and fried in lard. Apparently they are very closely linked to the making of red wine. This beverage was filtered through whipped egg whites and as the personnel of the castle did not know what to do with the leftover egg yolks, they donated them the cloister.

This marvelous pastry has gone through ups and downs since the day it was invented. Its origin is still unclear and the word's ethymology is very enigmatic. The name "Can(n)elé" (pronounced "kah-nuh-leh" and meaning "fluted") is very recent. In 1970 it does not appear in the “Guide Gourmand de la France” by Gault and Millau and it is only when, in 1985, the brotherhood of the Canelé of Bordeaux sees the day of light that the name becomes a collective brand. Ten years later, this goodie is once again very popular and many manufactures are built (about 1400) in Aquitaine and Gironde. Today this wonder of the French culinary patrimony is so fashionable and beloved that it can be found in numerous bakeries in France and around the world (it can even be bought at Bordeaux's McDonalds -*ugh*).

When it comes to cannelés there are a lot of secrets surrounding them, but one thing is for sure, there is absolutely no mystery to why those unique confections meet such a success. It is absolutely impossible to doubt their deliciousness. They are just irrefutably fantastic and irresistible.

Made with a revamped crêpe batter, "Cannelés Bordelais" are a bit like a cross between a pancake, waffle, pudding, popovers and clafoutis. Their moist, spongy and custardy insides, crisp, crusty, chewy and caramelized outsides as well as amazing flavor redolent of vanilla and rum will enchant your tastebuds and conquer your heart. This delicacy is so exquisite that you'll be incapable of forgetting it and will bake them on a regular basis.

Oh, why did it take me so long to discover those wonderful babies? When I think that I have wasted so many years dawdling, it makes me rip my hair out in utter desperation. So, please do me a favor, don't be stupid like me and postpone the sampling of "Cannelés Bordelais" (or anything else for that effect). Run into your kitchen and make the immediately!

~ Cannelés Bordelais ~
Recipe adapted from "Petits Cannelés.... A Dévorer" by Catherine Nicolas.

Makes 12 mini cannelés or 7 medium cannelés.

Ingredients:
1 Pod vanilla or 1 1/2 Tsp Pure vanilla paste
200ml Full-fat milk
20g Unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 Big egg
90g Granulated sugar
1 Tbs Dark rum
45g All-purpose flour
1 Pinch Fine sea salt

Method:
1 . Put the milk in a small pan. Add the split and scraped vanilla pod (or the vanilla paste). Bring to the boil, remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.
2 . In a medium bowl, cream the butter together with the sugar.
3 . Add the egg and mix well (use a whisk).
4. Incorporate the rum, then the flour and salt. Whisk well (there should be no lumps left).
5. Slowly pour the warm milk into the mixture while mixing gently.
6. Put the batter in the fridge (in a closed recipient) for 12 hours minumum.

7. The next day, preheat the oven to 210° C (410 ° C).

8. Pour the batter into the cannelé compartments about 3/4 of the way.
9. Bake for about 1 hour (or 45 minutes if you are using the mini molds).
10 . Once you've removed the cannelés from the oven, proceed to unmoold. Let cool on a wire rack.

Remarks:
I recommend you to use a traditional metal cannelé pan (no silicone).
If you don't have a cannelé pan then you can use a popover pan.
Cannelés are ready when they are crusty and looking caramelized as well as dark on the outside.
Eat rapidly. They are best when eaten fresh and still a little warm.

Serving suggestions:
Serve for dessert with some whipped cream and a fruit salad or alone for breakfast or teatime.

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~ Cannelés Bordelais ~
Recette adaptée de "Petits Cannelés.... A Dévorer" par Catherine Nicolas.

Pour 12 mini cannelés ou 7 cannelés moyen.

Ingrédients:
1 Gousse de vanille ou 1 1/2 CC de Pâte de vanille pure
200ml de Lait entier
20g de Beurre non-salé, ramolli
1 Gros oeuf
90g de Sucre cristallisé
1 CS de Rhum brun
45g de Farine blanche
1 Pincée de Sel de mer fin

Méthode:
1 . Mettre le lait dans une casserole. Y ajouter la gousse de vanille (fendue en deux et raclé - ou la pâte de vanille pure) et ses graines. Porter à ébullition, puis éteindre le feu et laissez infuser 10 minutes à couvert.
2 . Dans un bol moyen, mélanger ensemble le sucre et le beurre mou. Les battre en pommade.
3 . Ajouter l'oeuf et bien mélanger à l'aide d'un fouet.
4. Incorporer le rhum, puis la farine et le sel. Bien mélanger (il ne faut plus qu'il y ait de grumeaux).
5. Verser le lait petit à petit tout en remuant doucement avec le fouet.
6. Mettre la préparation au frigo (dans un récipient fermé) pendant au moins 12 heures.

7. Le lendemain, préchauffer le four à 210° C (410 ° C).
8. Remplir les moules à mini cannelés aux trois quarts.
9. Enfournez et faites cuire pendant 1 heure (45 minutes pour les petits) environ.
10 . Démouler les cannelés au sortir du four et faire refroidir sur un grille. Servir tiède ou à température ambiante.

Remarques:
Je vous conseille de cuire ces cannelés dans des moules métalliques.
Les cannelés sont prêts quand leur croûte est bien caramélisée et sombre.
Cette spécialité est meilleure fraîche et juste sortie du four (mais refroidie un peu).

Idées de présentation:
Servir au dessert avec de la crème chantilly et une salade de fruits, ou pour le petit déjeûner ou à l'heure du thé (sans accompagnement).

ENGLISH MINCEMEAT

 

Christmas (or Yule-tide) is getting closer everyday and although this year it falls on a Saturday meaning that some of us might not have a longer weekend, most people will want to celebrate this day in a very festive way. No matter if you are not Christian or if the commercial misuse of this event disgust you or puts you off, I guess that like me, you'll nonetheless want to cook or bake something fine for the occasion and will want to do some extreme cocooning...

As I miss England and feel awfully nostalgic when thinking about my second country (I am lucky and proud to have dual nationality and beserker ancestors - Swiss and English) I thought that it would be a great idea to make it a british Xmas this year and eat foods that would remind me of my beloved roots. So in 2010, I will be serving turkey with stuffing (sage & onion) and it's accompaniment (Brussel sprouts with chestnuts & bacon, buttery mashed tatties and gravy). To make it even the more British than it is already, we'll have "Mince Pies" for dessert - an exquisite treat that I have alaways loved as a kid and have been craving since a while.

After having received my Christmas issues of Delicious, Good Food and Jamie Magazine there was no reason I was not going to make my own "Mincemeat". All three magazines offer wonderful recipes for this amazing speciality which originates from Great Britain and can be traced back to the end of Middle Ages (circa the 15th century).

During this epoch finding a method of storing food was of the highest importance and many ways had been developped (pickling, jarring, curing, spicing, etc...). So, initially "Mincemeat" began as a way to preserve food therefore that paste-like mixture can be kept for quite a while (1 month and depending on the kind of fat used, for up to a year).

This brown colored, fruity (apple, raisins, currants, sultanas, candied peel, oranges & lemons), richly spiced ( mixed spice, cinnamon, ginger & nutmeg), boozy (rum) filling enriched with fat (lard, suet or butter) is used in the confection of "Mince Pies" that are traditionally baked for Christmas or Easter (eaten all year long too).

It is very interesting to note that our modern era "Mincemeat" is quite different from the one which was prepared until the 19th century. The original preparation was made with beef, lamb, venison or heart which was finely minced and mixed to suet, dried fruits, citrus peel, alcohol and spices, hence the name it carries. Although this version is now unusual and quite rare to find, some families still perpetuate the tradition.

Although I've eaten my share of "Mince Pies" in the past, this is my first homemade "Mincemeat" and I must say that the result surpasses my expectations by far. Without trying to boast too much, I must recognize that mine is exactly the way it should be and tastes perfect. It has a fresh, tangy, frangrant, fruity, heady, delicately nutty, divinely spicy, well-balanced flavor and isn't too sweet nor sickly. Very Xmassy and so festive.

~Mincemeat ~
Recipe adapted from "Delicious" magazine, December 2010.

Enough to fill 4 jam jars.

Ingredients:
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large organic lemons
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 large organic oranges
1 Large (about 300g) Boskoop apple (or Bramley apple)
80g Unsalted butter
20g Lard
70ml Dark rum
200g Raisins
150g Sultanas
150g Currants
100g Candied Orange peel, chopped
50g Candied lemon peel, chopped
1 1/2 Tsp Ground cinnamon
1 Tsp Ground ginger
1/2 Tsp Freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 Tsp Mixed spice
175g Light muscovado sugar
60g Lightly toasted almonds, chopped

Method:
1. Put the orange and lemon zest and juices into a biggish pan.
2. Peel, quarter and core the apple. Grate it and add it to the pan. Stir into the juices so that it doesn’t discolour.
3. Add the butter, lard, rum, dried fruits, candied peels and spices. Cook over a low heat, stirring frequently, for 1 hour until the apple has broken down, the dried fruits are plump and all the liquid has evaporated.
4. Let cool, then add the sugar and the toasted almonds. Mix well.
5. Spoon into cool, sterilised jam jars, press a waxed disc firmly onto the surface of the mixture and seal.
6. Put in the refrigerator and use within 1 month.

Remarks:
Instead of using dark rum, you can use calvados, sherry, brandy or whisky.
You can replace the almonds by hazelnuts or any other roasted nut of your choice (not traditional but ok).
Mincemeat flavors develop over time, so make in several weeks in advance of the holidays.
If you want you mincemeat to have a longer shelf life, then omit the butter and stir in 100g shredded suet at the end (don't add 20g lard at the beginning), along with the sugar and almonds. In that way your mincemeat will keep for up to a year in a cool dark place.
It freezes well too – for up to 6 months.

Serving suggestions:
Make "Mince Pies" using your homemade "Mincemeat".

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~Mincemeat ~
Recette adaptée du magazine "Delicious", Décembre 2010.

Pour 4 pots à confiture.

Ingrédients:
Le zeste et jus de 2 citrons bio
Le zeste et jus de 2 oranges bio
1 Grosse (300g) Pomme boskoop (pomme goûteuse pour compote)
80g de Beurre non-salé
20g de Saindoux
70ml de Rhum foncé
200g de Raisins
150g de Sultanines
150g de Raisins blonds
100g d'Orangeat en cube
100g de Citronnat en cubes
1 1/2 CC de Cannelle en poudre
1 CC de Gingembre en poudre
1/2 CC de Noix de muscade fraîchement moulue
3/4 CC de Mixed spice (voir remarques pour recette)
175g de Sucre "muscovado"
60g d'Amandes torréfiées et hachées

Méthode:
1. Mettre les zestes et jus d'orange et de citron dans une assez grande casserole.
2. Peler, nettoyer et couper en quartiers la pomme, puis la râper et la mélanger au jus dans la casserole.
3. Ajouter le beurre, le saindoux, le rhum, les fruits secs, l'orangeat, le citronnat et les épices, puis cuire (avec couvercle) endant 1 heure à basse température en mélangeant régulièrement jusqu'à ce que la pomme se soit désintégrée, que les raisins soient imbibés et que le jus se soit évaporé.
4. Laisser refroidir, puis ajouter les amandes et le sucre.
5. Remplir des pots à confiture stérilisés et recouvrir le mincemeat avec un rond de papier sulfurisé. Fermer les pots.
6. Conserver le mincemeat au frigo pendant 1 mois maximum.

Remarques:
Au lieu d'utiliser du rhum, vous pouvez prendre du calvados, du whisky, du sherry ou du brandy.
Les amandes peuvent être remplacées par des noisettes ou les noix de votre choix - au préalable torréfiées (pas traditionnel mais ok).
Le mincemeat développe toute sa saveur avec le temps, alors prenez bien soin de le confectionner quelques semaines avant les fêtes.
Si vous voulez garder votre mincemeat encore plus longtemps, alors omettez le beurre et remplacez-le par du saindoux râpé que vous ajouterez à la fin avec le sucre et les amandes. De cette manière vous pourrez le conserver une année au frais et dans un lieu sombre.
Il se congèle aussi très bien – 6 mois maximum.
Pour obtenir le mélange d'épices "Mixed Spice", mélanger ensemble 1 CS de tout épice en poudre, 1 CS de cannellle en poudre 1 CS de noix de muscade moulue,
2 CC de macis en poudre, 1 CC de clous de girofles moulus, 1 CC de Coriandre en poudre et 1 CC de gingembre en poudre.

Idées de présentation:
Confectionner des "Mince Pies" avec votre "Mincemeat".

HARVEST APPLE CHALLAH - WORLD BREAD DAY 2010

This week I was once again facing another of my famous recipe crisises. I felt inspired, but could not find the bread I wanted to make for Zorra's "World Bread Day" annual event and roundup....

I knew that I wanted to bake something sweet, with apples and with some originality. I didn't want to propose a bread I had already blogged about so that limited my choice. You have to know that, as strange as it might seem, there aren't that many different recipes that combine brioche-type dough and apples. Apart from "Apple Cinnamon Rolls" (not enough apple in them), "Apple Danish Braids" (I had already made that speciality once - with apricots), "Apple Buns" (delicious, but not delicate enough and too rustic, in my opinion) and "Apple Pizzas/Focaccias" (I've already written a lot about fruit-based pizzas or focaccias) there isn't much choice when it comes to associating that fall fruit with bread dough (yes, I know, I am a terribly finicky person).

It is only after a good hour of roaming through the net and getting slighty overheated (My anger was boiling. I felt like a pressure cooker ready to explode!) by my unsuccessful quest that I finally stumbled upon what I was looking for. I was going to bake a "Harvest Apple Challah". A not overly rich brioche bread that contains enough apples to satisfy my fruit cravings and which has a load of personaliy.

What is ironic about that recipe is that I found it nowhere else than on one of my favorite and most regularly visited pages on the net: the King Arthur Flour website. I had to google and surf crazily like a spastic (no harm meant to people suffering fom cerebral palsy) in a frenzy in order to end up finding my recipe on a site I know more than well. I could have saved a lot of time if I knew that at the end I was going to choose a recipe from them!!!

This "Harvest Apple Challah" is very different from the traditional Challahs we all know (plain, braided or coiled and with sesame or poppy seeds). This non-orthodox Challah is prepared like "Monkey Bread", spiced with cardamom, vanilla as well as orange peel puree and stuffed with sweetened cinnamon and rum scented apple chunks. In fact, it is called Challah just because the dough is made exactly like that of this wonderful festive Jewish bread.

The dough is rather painless and straightforward to prepare; nothing very difficult here (Unless you've never made bread that is...). The filling is also easy peasy. The only messy part in this recipe is when you have to cut the big apple-filled dough pillow in 16 pieces and place each of them in the round cake pan. Then, it gets kind of dirty, chaotic and extremely untidy. You'll have apples falling out, slippery wet dough refusing to get tamed, syrup juice oozing out of every opening and you'll think that it all went terribly wrong. But don't stick to that impression. You are actually doing the right thing. Don't panic, breathe deep and forget about the disastrous appearance of your unbaked Challah and your post-atomic bomb looks of your work surface. It will indeed look picture perfect once it comes out of the oven!

The smooth Challah dough contains fragrant honey, spices (my addition), some eggs and sunflower oil (no butter is ever used in this briochy treat). This particular combination confers an incredibly tender, fluffy and delicate texture as well as a divinely aromatic flavor to this bread. For the apple filling (to which I added a little rum), I chose not to use apples that are commonly employed when making desserts or cooking (Golden, Granny Smith, Gala, Jonagold, etc...) as in my opinion they either lack oomph, sharpness or fragrance. I decided upon choosing one of my favorite apples, the Dutch Belle de Boskoop. This large, lumpy, dull reddish green-brown apple might not be as pretty as it's other apple counterparts (I find it beautiful, though) and might look a little rustic as well as not prone to be presented on stalls, but believe me it has one of the most mouthwatering aromas I have ever come upon. And is the best ally when baking as it stands up well to cooking (As you have gathered now, I am a BIG fan of this apple!). Needless to say that the sharp filling was just perfect and contrasted wonderfully with the light sweetness of the bread.

This KAF "Harvest Apple Challah" is just simply to die for so do yourself a favor and BAKE IT without delay!!!!

This bread is getting yeastspotted by Susan’s Yeastspotting!

~Harvest Apple Challah ~
Recipe adapted from King Arthur Flour.

Ingredients for the "Dough":
1/2 Cup (4oz) Water, lukewarm
6 Tbs Vegetable oil (sunflower or peanut oil preferred)
1/4 Cup Runny honey
2 Large eggs
4 Cups (17oz) Unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 Tsp Sea salt
1/2 Tsp Ground cardamom
1 1/2 Tsp Pure vanilla extract
1 Tsp Orange peel puree zest
1 Tbs (7g) Dried/instant yeast
Ingredients for the "Apple Filling":
2 Medium-to-large Apples (not peeled), cored and diced in 3/4" chunks
1 Tsp Ground cinnamon
1/4 Cup (2oz) Light brown sugar
1 Tbs Dark rum (optional)
Ingredients for the "Glaze":
1 Large egg
1 Tbs Water
Pearl sugar (optional)

Method for the "Dough":
1. Combine all of the dough ingredients. Mix and then knead them, using a mixer or by hand (or bread machine), until you have a soft, smooth and elastic dough (about 8-10 minutes).
2. Put the dough in a oiled/buttered bowl and let it rise, covered, for 2 hours or until it's puffy and nearly doubled in size (If you've made the dough in a bread machine, allow it to rise in the machine for an extra hour after the dough cycle is completed.).
3. Lightly grease/butter a 9inch round cake pan that's at least 2inch deep (or grease a 9inch or 10inch springform pan).
Method for the "Apple Filling":
4. Toss the apple chunks with the sugar, cinnamon and rum.
5. Gently deflate the dough, transfer it to a lightly greased work surface, and flatte n it into a rough rectangle, about 8 x 10 inches.
6. Spread half the apple chunks in the center of the dough (see remarks for details).
7. Fold a short edge of the dough over the apple in order to cover it, patting firmly to seal the apples and spread the dough a bit.
8. Spread the remaining apple atop the folded-over dough.
9. Cover the apples with the other side of the dough, again patting firmly (Basically, you've folded the dough like a letter, enclosing the apples inside.).
10. Take a long knife and cut the apple-filled dough into 16 pieces. Cut in half, then each half in halves, etc ... (This will be very, VERY messy; the dough is slippery, apples will fall out, sugar syrup will ooze... it's not pretty. Don't worry, and don't stress about making all the pieces the same size).
11. Lay the dough chunks into the pan (Crowd them so that they all fit in a single tight layer - barely. Lots of apple chunks will fall out during this process; just tuck them in among the dough pieces, or simply spread them on top.).
12. Cover the challah gently with lightly greased plastic wrap or a humid towel and let it rise for about 1 hour, until it's a generous 2inches high (It should just crest the rim of a 9inch round cake pan). Twenty minutes before the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 325° F (170° C).

Method for the "Glaze":
13. Whisk together the egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush the dough with the egg mixture, and sprinkle heavily with the pearl sugar, if desired.
14. Place the bread in the lower third of the oven. Bake it for 55 minutes, or until the top is at least light golden brown all over and has no white spots (Some of the higher-rising pieces will actually char; that's OK.).
15. Remove the challah from the oven, and after 5 minutes loosen the edges and carefully transfer it to a rack.
16. Let cool or serve warm.

Remarks:
I made my challah with Boskoop apples.
Be sure to use good-quality honey and oil in this recipe. Since they play such a major part, they have to taste good.
Use neutral-flavored oil. Canola oil can produce off flavors in baking, so best not to use it here.
If you want to see a picture tutorial of that recipe go over to the KAF site.

Serving suggestions:
Serve the bread warm or at room temperature.
Drizzle with honey just before serving, if desired or serve with honey for dipping.

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~ Challah Aux Pommes ~
Recette adaptée de King Arthur Flour.

Ingrédients pour la "Pâte":
120ml d'Eau à température ambiante
6 CS (90ml/g) d'Huile végétale (tournesol ou arachide)
90ml/g de Miel liquide
2 Gros oeufs (63g)
510g de Farine blanche/fleur
1 1/2 CC de Sel de mer

1/2 CC de Cardamome en poudre
1 1/2 CC d'Extrait de vanille pure
1 CC de Zeste d'orange en purrée

1 CS (7g/1 sachet) de Levure sèche (en granulés)
Ingrédients pour la garniture aux "Pommes":
2 Moyennes à larges pommes (non pelées), nettoyées et coupées en morceaux de 1cm
1 CC de Cannelle en poudre

60g de Sucre brun clair
1 CS de Rhum foncé (en option)
Ingrédients pour le "Glaçage":
1 Gros oeuf
1 CS d'eau
Sucre perlé (en option)

Méthode pour la "Pâte"
1. Mettre tous les ingrédients pour la pâte dans un bol. Mélanger et pétrir (pendant environ 8-10 minutes) à la main ou avec un robot (ou bien avec votre MAP), jusqu'à obtention d'une pâte douce et élastique.
2. Mettre la pâte dans un bol huilé, la couvrir avec un linge ou du film plastique et laisser lever pendant 2 heures ou jusqu'à ce qu'elle ait presque doublé de volume (Si vous avez préparé cette pâte dans votre MAP, alors laissez-la lever une heure supplémentaire après que le cycle se soit terminé.).
3. Légèrement beurrer/huiler un moule à cake de 23cm et de 6cm de haut (ou un moule à charnière de 23cm).
Méthode pour la garniture aux "Pommes":
4. Mélanger les pommes avec le sucre, la cannelle et le rhum.
5. Faire dégonfler la pâte, la transférer sur un plan de travail légèrement huilé et l'applatir afin d'obtenir un rectangle approximatif de 20 x 25cm.
6. Mettre la moitié des pommes au centre de la pâte (sur la largeur - voir remarques pour la méthode illustrée).

7. Replier le côté plus étroit sur le pommes pour les recouvrir et bien applatir afin de bien répartir les pommes.
8. Répartir les pommes sur le partie repliée.
9. Couvrir les pommes avec l'autre bord et applatir à nouveau (En fait, vous aurez replié la pâte telle une lettre, en renfermant les pommes à l'intérieur).
10. A l'aide d'un couteau, couper ce "chausson" en 16 morceaux. Couper en deux, puis encore en deux, etc... (Cette étape est très salissante; la pâte est glissante, les pommes s'échappent de leur enveloppe et du jus coule... C'est pas beau, mais pas de panique, c'est normal. Il n'y a pas besoin non plus que les morceaux soient égaux.).

11. Placer les morceaux dans le moule (Faire une seule couche et bien les coller ensemble/serrer. Certains morceaux de pomme tomberont durant cette étape; il suffira juste de les coller/presser sur le dessous du pain.).
12. Couvrir votre challah avec du film plastique huilé ou un linge humide et la faire lever pendant environ 1 heure, jusqu'à ce qu'elle ait atteint une hauteur de 5-6cm (La pâte devrait juste dépasser le bord du moule.). Vingt minutes avant la fin du temps de levée, préchauffer le four à 170° C.

Méthode pour le "Glaçage":
13. Battre ensemble l'oeuf et la cuillère à soupe d'eau. Badigeonner la pâte avec ce mélange et saupoudrer généreusement avec le sucre perlé.
14. Mettre le pain dans le tiers inférieur du four et le cuire pendant 55 minutes, ou jusqu'à ce que le dessus soit doré (Certaines parties plus élevées seront peut être caramélisées; c'est OK.).
15. Sortir la Challah du four. Après 5 minutes dégager les bords et la sortir du moule afin qu'elle refroidisse sur une grille.
6. Laisser la Challah refroidir complètement ou la manger encore chaude.

Remarques:
J'ai utilisé des pommes boskoop.
Choisir un miel et de l'huile de bonne qualité pour cette recette car la saveur en dépend grandement.
Utiliser de l'huile au goût neutre. L'huile de colza peut donner un mauvais petit arrière-goût à votre Challah, alors c'est préférable de ne pas en utiliser pour cette recette.
Sur le site KAF vous trouverez la recette en photos. Cela vous aidera à comprendre comment replier la pâte afin de créer un "chausson" (étapes 6 à 9).

Idées de présentation:
Servir ce pain chaud ou à température ambiante.
Arroser avec du miel liquide ou tremper votre tranche de brioche dans du miel.

ICE CREAM PETITS FOURS - DARING BAKERS

Although, at the beginning of each month, I promise myself to finish my Daring Bakers' challenge long before the deadline I always end up making it at the very last moment. I think that I'm having trouble dealing with the endless flow of time. Every Sunday I feel as if I have got thrown into a washing machine with the tumble dryer program on and I shake my head in disbelief everytime a new month starts. I feel like a hamster running round in a wheel...

The August 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Elissa of "17 And Baking". For the first time, The Daring Bakers partnered with Sugar High Fridays for a co-event and Elissa was the gracious hostess of both. Using the theme of beurre noisette, or browned butter, Elissa chose to challenge Daring Bakers to make a pound cake to be used in either a "Baked Alaska" or in "Ice Cream Petit Fours". The sources for Elissa’s challenge were Gourmet Magazine and David Lebovitz’s “The Perfect Scoop”.

As I had never made "Petits Fours" or "Ice Cream Sandwiches" before, I decided upon making those cute little frozen cakes for my boyfriend's birthday. As we were only two to eat this dessert and since my freezer crammed with "junk" I thought it would be more judicious to cut the the quantities in half. Otherwise I followed the recipe to the letter, nonetheless I added my personal touch to the vanilla ice cream that I flavored with Chinese Five-Spice powder (a mix of powdered star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds) and dark rum.

Apart from having problems with the size of my freezer, the high temperatures (the ice cream started melting when I tried to coat the cakes with the cooled glaze - painful), my nerve-wracking hungry cats (who constantly kept walking around my legs and following my every movement as well as step while sitting at the other end of the room with their biiiiiiig psycho eyes) the making of those "Ice Cream Petit Fours" went quite smoothly.

We really liked those icy treats. The cake had a heavenly nutty taste thanks to the browned butter, the ice cream was divinely spicy and boozy and the dark chocolate glaze had a lot of character. All those elements blended very well together, yet I must say that I would have prefered to eat each of them separately (a ball ice cream with a slice of non-frozen cake, the whole drizzled with warm chocolate ganache). Somehow, the cake had less flavor when served frozen and that was a bit annoying as it was very aromatic when I tested it before it was used to make mini sandwiches...

Anyway, I wish to thank Elissa for having chosen that great dessert and making me try something new. A recipe that delighted us very much!

~ Five Spice Ice Cream Petits Fours ~
The brown butter pound cake recipe is adapted from the October 2009 edition of Gourmet. The vanilla ice cream is from ice cream genius David Lebovitz, adapted from The Perfect Scoop. The chocolate glaze for the petit fours is a larger adapted version of this ganache from Godiva Chocolate.

Preparation time:
Ice cream – 45 min active time, ice cream rests/chills for 1 hour then overnight. Without an ice cream maker, the ice cream chills 2-3 hours and must be stirred every 30 minutes.
Brown Butter Pound Cake – 2 hours (includes cooling time).
Chocolate Glaze – 15 minutes
Meringue – 10 minutes
Assembly of Ice Cream Petit Fours – Ice cream must be frozen ahead of time several hours, then the cake and ice cream freeze overnight. After dipping, the petit fours freeze for one hours.
Assembly of Baked Alaska – Ice cream must be frozen head of time several hours, then the Baked Alaska is frozen 1 hour or up to one day.

Equipment required:
• Small and medium saucepans
• Paring knife
• 2 quart (2 litres) bowl
• Electric mixer
• Whisk
• Spatula
• Sieve
• 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square baking pan
• 10” (25 cm) skillet
• Cake leveler/serrated knife
• Cooling racks
• Rimmed half sheets
• Teacups
• Plastic wrap
• Piping bags (optional)
• Ice cream maker (optional)
• Cooking blow torch (optional)

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FIVE SPICE ICE CREAM

Ingredients For The "Five Spice Ice Cream":
1 Cup (250ml) Whole milk
A pinch of sea salt
3/4 Cup (165g) Sugar
1 Vanilla bean, split lengthwise OR 2 teaspoons (10ml) pure vanilla extract
2 Cups (500ml) Heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
5 Large egg yolks
1 Tsp Pure vanilla extract
2 1/4 Tsps Chinese 5 spices
3 Tbs Dark rum

Method For The "Five Spice Ice Cream":
1. Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams. Scrape out the seeds of the vanilla bean with a paring knife and add to the milk, along with the bean pod. Cover, remove from heat, and let infuse for an hour. (If you do not have a vanilla bean, simply heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams, then let cool to room temperature.).
2. Set up an ice bath by placing a 2-quart (2 litre) bowl inside a large bowl partially filled with water and ice. Put a strainer on top of the smaller bowl and pour in the cream.
3. In another bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks together. Reheat the milk in the medium saucepan until warmed, and then gradually pour ¼ cup warmed milk into the yolks, constantly whisking to keep the eggs from scrambling. Once the yolks are warmed, scrape the yolk and milk mixture back into the saucepan of warmed milk and cook over low heat. Stir constantly and scrape the bottom with a spatula until the mixture thickens into a custard which thinly coats the back of the spatula.
4. Strain the custard into the heavy cream and stir the mixture until cooled. Add the vanilla extract (1 teaspoon [5ml] if you are using a vanilla bean; 3 teaspoons [15ml] if you are not using a vanilla bean), the 5 spice, the rum and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.
5. Remove the vanilla bean and freeze in an ice cream maker. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can make it without a machine (see instructions from David Lebovitz).

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BROWN BUTTER POUND CAKE

Ingredients For the "Brown Butter Pound Cake":
19 Tbs (9.5 oz/275g) Unsalted butter
2 Cups (200g) Sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring/see “Note” section for cake flour substitution)
1 Tsp (5g) Baking powder
1/2 Tsp (3g) Sea salt
1/2 Cup (110g) Packed light brown sugar
1/3 Cup (75g) Granulated sugar
4 Large eggs
1/2 Tsp Pure vanilla extract

Method For the "Brown Butter Pound Cake":
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C and put a rack in the center. Butter and flour a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan.
2. Place the butter in a 10” (25cm) skillet over medium heat. Brown the butter until the milk solids are a dark chocolate brown and the butter smells nutty. (Don’t take your eyes off the butter in case it burns.) Pour into a shallow bowl and chill in the freezer until just congealed, 15-30 minutes.
3. Whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt.
4. Beat the brown butter, light brown sugar, and granulated sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well, and then the vanilla extract.
5. Stir in the flour mixture at low speed until just combined.
6. Scrape the batter into the greased and floured 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula and rap the pan on the counter. Bake until golden brown on top and when a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes.
7. Cool in the pan 10 minutes. Run a knife along the edge and invert right-side-up onto a cooling rack to cool completely.

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CHOCOLATE GLAZE

Ingredients For The "Chocolate Glaze":
9 Oz (250g) Dark chocolate, finely chopped
1 Cup (250ml) Heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
1 1/2 Tbs (32g) Light corn syrup, Golden syrup, or agave nectar
2 Tsp (10ml) Pure vanilla extract (I omitted it)

Method For The "Chocolate Glaze":
1. Stir the heavy cream and light corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and add the dark chocolate.
2. Let sit 30 seconds, then stir to completely melt the chocolate. Stir in the vanilla and let cool until tepid before glazing the petit fours.

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HOW TO ASSEMBLE

Instructions:
1. Line a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) pan with plastic wrap, so that no sides of the pan are exposed and so there is some extra plastic wrap hanging off the sides. Spread 1 ¾ to 2 cups (450ml to 500ml) ice cream into the pan. Cover with more plastic wrap and freeze several hours.
2. Once the brown butter pound cake has completely cooled, level the top with a cake leveler or a serrated knife. Then split the cake in half horizontally to form two thin layers.
3. Unwrap the frozen ice cream. Flip out onto one of the layers of cake and top with the second layer of cake. Wrap well in plastic wrap and return to the freezer overnight.
4. Make the chocolate glaze (see above.).
5. While the glaze cools, trim ¾” (2cm) off each side of the ice cream cake to leave a perfectly square 7.5” (19cm) ice cream cake. Cut the cake into twenty five petit fours, each 1.5”x1.5” (4cmx4cm).

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NOTES

• While there is not a great deal of active time, this recipe cannot be easily completed in a day because of freezing time. Make the ice cream first, then the pound cake, then the glaze/meringue as stated in the assembly instructions.
• The pound cake calls for cake flour. You can make 1 cup of cake flour by placing 2 tablespoons of corn starch in a 1 cup measure, and filling to the top with all purpose flour.
• The ice cream can be flavored however you want by infusing the cream, stirring in extracts or mix ins, or folding in purees, sauces, etc.
• For the petit fours, you can also use your own recipe for fondant, poured fondant, royal icing, or marzipan. I recommend the chocolate glaze because it freezes well and balances the sweetness of the ice cream, but it does limit the scope of your decorations.

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Etant donné la longueur du texte original, je n'ai malheureusement pas pu faire une traduction française de ce billet et je m'en excuse auprès de tous mes amis lecteurs et blogueurs francophones!

C'est pourquoi je vous suggère de vous rendre sur le blog mentionné ci-dessous. Vous y trouverez cette recette en version française.

Chez Isa de "Les Gourmandises d'Isa" (Canada)
Chez Vibi de "La Casserole Carrée" (Canada)