DAMSON PLUM FLAUGNARDE (CLAFOUTIS) - FLAUGNARDE AUX QUETSCHES

September days have the warmth of summer in their briefer hours, but in their lengthening evenings a prophetic breath of autumn. The cricket chirps in the noontide, making the most of what remains of his brief life. The bumblebee is busy among the clover blossoms of the aftermath, and their shrill and dreamy hum hold the outdoor world above the voices of the song birds, now silent or departed.
-   September Days by Rowland E. Robinson, Vermont.

September's baccalaureate
A combination is of crickets - crows - and retrospects
And a dissembling breeze
That hints without assuming -
An innuendo sear
That makes the heart put up its fun
And turn philosopher.
-   Emily Dickinson, September's Baccalaureate

August ended on a bright, balmy and estival note, but as we were entering September the weather decided to take an abrupt turn when summer silently sneaked out through the back door like some secret lover on a undercover mission. Without much fuss, it shyly bid us farewell and quietly tiptoed away; as if its joyful presence and warm embrace had not mattered to us, it eclipsed itself, never to be seen again.

Autumn, that artfully cheeky little opportunist of a trickster swiftly and discretely replaced our beloved summer and immediately made itself comfortable. Similarly to a fearsome king marking his territory, fall entered the scene dramatically and imperially. Fierce thunderbolts, tempestuous northern winds and torrents of water accompanied his boisterous arrival.

October, baptize me with leaves! Swaddle me in corduroy and nurse me with split pea soup. October, tuck tiny candy bars in my pockets and carve my smile into a thousand pumpkins. O autumn! O teakettle! O grace!
- Rainbow Rowell, Attachments

You expected to be sad in the fall. Part of you died each year when the leaves fell from the trees and their branches were bare against the wind and the cold, wintery light. But you knew there would always be the spring, as you knew the river would flow again after it was frozen. When the cold rains kept on and killed the spring, it was as though a young person died for no reason.
- Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

The change was so unexpected and radical that it shocked us all. Now that capricious october has fully kicked in and Samhain is nearing, thick fog blankets obscure the sky till noon, the world is filled with chilly warmth (temperatures rarely reach 18°C/64° F in the afternoon), sun rays gracefully bathe the landscapes in a golden glow, light's decline is becoming more palpable every evening, melancholic quietness fills the air, snow returns to the mountains and suddenly, I find myself craving comforting casseroles as well as warm drinks and prefer to sit indoors rather than on my balcony (unless it is for a short coffee break - in order to aerate my head).

Despite being an unconditional admirer of the fiery season, it is with a heavy heart and a lot of nostalgy that I mourn the death of our late radiant and frivolous dandy. We had so much fun in each other's company, however our time together was far too short. Hence it is difficult to accept the fact that, after barely 8 weeks of continuous heat and sunshine, the grim and colder days are once more back and we'll have to wait another long 6 to 7 months before we can frolick in the grass and have a drink on a terrace - sans jacket, sweater or coat - again.

Earth is here so kind, that just tickle her with a hoe and she laughs with a harvest.
- Douglas Jerrold

Anyway, this time of the year is also my favorite as it is that of the harvest and for our biggest pleasure, many sensational fruits and vegetables reappear on the market stalls. It is a period of abundance and plentifulness during which our plates are well-garnished and dishes are colorful (earthly tones of orange, brown, red, purple, yellow and green invite themselves to the dinning table), hearty as well as flavorful.

One of my most cherished perennial produces is unquestionably the Swiss plum. I am totally addicted to this violet fruit and can never get enough of its incomparable exquisiteness and versatility. Unfortunately, the "prunneau" picking period doesn't last very long, so I try my best to make the most out of this delicacy while it is still available. Clafoutis, cakes, foccacie, jams, trifles, compotes, puddings, muffins, crumbles, you name it, from late August to the end of October, there isn't one dessert I'll not make with quetsches!

Sadly for me, plum cropping is slowly coming to an end and the mighty apple will soon take its turn under the spotlight and become the star in my kitchen. So in order to appropriately say goodbye to damsons (my most treasured variety), I have decided to share with you a flaugnarde (also known as flagnarde, flognarde or flougnarde) recipe inspired by the talented Jamie Schler at "Life's A Feast".

I am a big fan of this lady's fabulous bakes and delightful prose, and whenever I visit her blog a strike of creativity hits me. This generally leads me to getting into a productive state and artistic frenzy. Thus, after admiring her incredibly enticing "Flognarde (Clafoutis) Aux Pommes", ideas started to flood my brain and I felt the urge to create my own funky version of this French classic (Jamie's interpretation of it is original too).

Commonly, this speciality always contains plain flour only and apart from vanilla, another flavor is rarely added to the preparation. Anyhow, I'm a transgresser of rules who doesn't enjoy culinary rigidity or lack of imagination and it is for that very reason that I took the liberty of adding coconut flour, orange rind puree and Grand-Marnier to the batter.

My "Damson Plum Flaugnarde" turned out wonderfully and since then, I have baked it at least once a week (it is our official movie night treat). Hopefully you'll adore it as much as we do...

Damson Plum Flaugnarde
Recipe by Rosa Mayland.

Makes 1 flaugnarde - serves 4-6.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 Cups (360ml) of Milk
3 Big (~63g) Eggs
1/4 Cup + 1 Tbs (73g) Light brown sugar
1/4 Cup Castor Sugar (53g + some extra sugar for sprinkling)
1/2 Cup (64g) All-purpose flour
2 Tbs (30g) Coconut flour
1 Tsp Pure vanilla extract
1/3 Tsp Orange rind puree
2 Tbs Orange liquor (Cointreau or Grand-Marnier)
2 Tbs Oil (neutral)
8-10 Damson plums, stoned and halfed
Icing sugar, to decorate

 Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 200° C (400° F).
2. Over medium heat, bring the milk to a light simmer, then set aside.
3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugars until pale in color and foamy.
4. Add the flours, vanilla extract, orange rind puree, liquor and oil. Whisk until smooth.
5. Gradually whisk in the warm milk.
6. Pour the mixture into a buttered round 8-9" (20-22cm) pie dish.
7. Drop the plums into the batter and sprinkle with a little extra sugar.
8. Bake for 35-40 minutes until the flaugnarde is puffed and golden.
9. Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve.

Remarks:
The coconut flour can be replaced with the same amount of all-pupose flour and the brown sugar with the same quantity of castor sugar.
If you don't like orange rind or liquor, then you can use lemon zest and Limoncello instead.

Serving suggestions:
Eat warm or at room temperature and serve alone or with a scoop of ice cream (vanilla, pecan, walnut, caramel, etc...).

Flaugnarde Aux Quetsches
Recette par Rosa Mayland.

Pour 1 flaugnarde, 4-6 personnes.
 
Ingrédients:
360ml de Lait
3 Gros (~63g) Oeufs
73g de Sucre de canne fin
53g de Sucre fin cristallisé (+ un peu de sucre supplémentaire pour saupoudrer)
64g de Farine blanche
30g de Farine de noix de coco
1 CC d'Extrait de vanille pure
1/3 CC de Zeste d'orange en purée
2 CS de Liqueur d'orange (Cointreau ou Grand-Marnier)
2 CS d'Huile (neutre)
8-10 Quetsches/prunes, dénoyautées et coupées en deux
Sucre glace, pour décorer

Méthode:
1. Préchauffer le four à 200 ° C.
2. À feu moyen, porter le lait à frémissement léger, puis le mettre de côté.
3. Dans un bol, fouetter ensemble les oeufs et les sucres, jusqu'à ce que le mélange soit pâle et mousseux.
4. Ajoutez les farines, l'extrait de vanille, le zeste d'orange, la liqueur et l'huile. Fouetter afin d'obtenir un consistance lisse et homogène.
5. Incorporer graduellement le lait chaud, tout en continuant de bien fouetter l'appareil.
6. Verser le mélange dans un moule à pie beurré (20-22cm).
7. Déposez les quetsches/prunes dans la pâte et saupoudrez le dessus de la flaugnarde avec un peu de sucre.
8. Cuire au four pendant 35-40 minutes, jusqu'à ce que la flaugnarde soit gonflée et dorée.
9. Saupoudrer de sucre glace et servir.

Remarques:
La farine de noix de coco peut être remplacée par de la farine blanche et la cassonade par du sucre fin cristallisé.
Si vous n'aimez pas le zeste ou la liqueur d'orange, alors vous pouvez utiliser du zeste de citron et du Limoncello à la place.

Suggestion de présentation: 
Cette flaugnarde peut être mangée chaude ou à température ambiante et servie sans accompagnement ou avec une boule de glace (vanille, noix de pécan, noix, caramel, etc...).

BLACK AND WHITE WEDNESDAY #98 - DAMSON STILL LIFE

- Waiting To Get Savored -

This picture was submitted to "Black & White Wednesday", an event created by Susan at "The Well-Seasoned Cook". It will be hosted on the 25th of September by Lynne at "Cafe Lynnylu" (click here in order to see who is hosting the next roundup).

PLUM TART WITH SCONE PASTRY & MASCARPONE - TARTE AUX PRUNES À LA PÂTE À SCONES ET AU MASCARPONE

It's wonderful to be back. Back among the mountains that remind us of our vulnerability, our ultimate lack of control over the world we live in. Mountains that demand humility, and yield so much peace in return.
- Alex Lowe

Autumn is my favorite season and it is also the perfect moment to take a vacation in the dazzling Swiss Alps, and more particularly in the Berner Oberland. It has to be said that nothing can quite beat the unique splendor and romantic ambiance of canton Bern's highlands when the trees have turned an intense shade of crimson and the fading sunlight bathes everything in gloriously fiery hues.

As a child, this is where I used to spend my October school holidays. Back then, I was already fascinated by this astonishing region and nowadays I am still profoundly attracted to its incredibly spellbinding magnificence. Hence, I incessantly keep returning there no matter the length of my stay - for one short day or for a week, it doesn't matter as long as I get my countryside "fix".

It is absolutely impossible not to fall madly in love with the Bernese Oberland. With its rugged snow-capped peaks, drop dead gorgeous waterfalls, stunning glaciers, soft and lush green dales, high-altitude emerald lakes, idillyc chalet villages and crisp clear air, this unbelievably beautiful and enthralling rural area of central Switzerland is a nature sanctuary which I like to compare to the Garden of Eden. And a paradise it is indeed as its spectacularly transcending landscapes, staggering panoramas as well as limitless trails through deep pine tree forests, rolling hills, rocky mountainsides and delightful meadows make it a hiking eldorado for both advanced and beginner trekkers. Whether you are a person who needs constant action and movement or somebody who is happy loafing around, there is no better place to enjoy your leisurely time.

Like most touristic havens, the Bernese Highlands are very popular during the summer and winter months. Personally, I prefer to go in this neck of the woods when fall is fully in bloom and the golden sceneries are so amazing that you lose the power of speech and tears of wonder/joy appear in your eyes. It is also a lot wiser to visit this lofty province at this period of the year, because rental prices are at their lowest and it is less crowded - you'll scarcely meet another soul (backpackers or skiers); the only living beings you'll come across will be the locals (mostly farmers) and their animals (cows, goats, cats, dogs, etc...).

In the past, my parents and I resided in a basic, yet comfy appartment with 70's retro furniture, an antique fire stove, a veranda and creeking/shaking pine floors which was part of an imposing and ancient (a few hundred years old) traditional farmhouse in which the owners lived. It was located outside the minuscule "town" of Zweisimmen (check out my posts on the subject) and was a bit isolated. The back of the building faced a thick and somewhat gloomy wood and the front overlooked the majestic Spillegerten (link to picture: 2nd photo from the top) and sublime Simmental valley. Apart from the muffled sound of the MOB train whistle in the distance, the bored moo of the cows and the soothing ring of their bells, silence prevailed. A sensational and extraordinarily relaxing experience!

For my very first getaway with P. since 1998 (!!!), I wanted to break the routine and rent an apartment which would offer similarly mind-blowing settings and an equally impressive scenic view, but which would be in another municipality. Our choice went to a small, simple, snug and welcoming two room duplex (self-catering) situated in the picturesque "suburbs" of Lenk (the district's population is 2450 and ruminants outnumber people), in Zelg, a tiny, bucolic and calm hamlet at the foot of the striking Mt. Wildstrubel and not far away from (only 500m) the tumbling Simmenfälle (waterfalls).

Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.
- John Muir
 
Aside from being a dreamlike accomodation with a view to knock your socks off, another plus point of "Haus Salvisberg" is its handy proximity to cable car stations (Metschbahn & Betelbergbahn) as well as to numerous exquisite footpaths, (both easy and moderatly difficult) leading to moon-like summits, verdant montane grasslands, rustic alpine huts and magic cascades. Valuable assets that cannot be underlooked and which will enchant admirers of untouched wildness and passionate walkers alike.

As a matter of fact, from this ideal location, many fantastic excursions on well-marked and maintained tracks can be done. Since that is what P. and I came for, we indulged in a little sport by going out every single day and trekking from morning to evening through the harshest terrains as well as smoothest pastures. The vistas were so grandiose and entertaining that we could have wandered for hours on ends without being bored. There's so much overwhelming beauty in this corner of the world that we forgot how tired our limbs were and how numb, heavy and achy they felt - at the end of each journey we were knackered, but we were gleefully content and our heads were full of ravishing memories...

After having spent one week cooking uncomplicated meals, not baking at all and hardly being challenged culinary-wise, I was glad to rebound with my kitchen and put my brand new oven to work again. In order to celebrate our coming home, I prepared a semi guilt-free tart* with the last plums (one of my favorite dessert fruits) of the season and my trademark low-fat pastry.
This home classic and personal invention is easy to put together, but it is nonetheless almighty exquisite and deliciously homey. A heavenly treat which is best savored with a glass of quality Porto or a cup of tea and while nostalgically remembering past travel adventures.

* It contains about 95g butter less than the ones confectioned with shortcrust dough.

Plum Tart With Scone Pastry & Mascarpone
Recipe by Rosa Mayland, November 2012.

Serves 4-6.

Ingredients For The "Scone Pastry":
338g Plain flour
2 Tsp Baking powder
1 Tsp Fine sea salt
75g Unsalted butter
38g Castor sugar
Milk, enough to form a firm dough
Ingredients For The "Filling":
250g Mascarpone, softened
120g Light brown sugar
740g Plums, halved and stoned
Cinnamon, to taste

Method For The "Scone Pastry":
1. Heat the oven to 190°C (375°F) and grease a 28cm (11 inches) tart pan. 
2. Mix together the flour, baking powder and salt, then rub in the butter.
3. Stir in the sugar.
4. Add the milk  and incorporate well (with the help of a knife) by cutting and turning the dough until it forms a clean ball.
5. Roll out the pastry and line the base of your tart pan.
6. Trim the edges and prick the base of the tart with a fork.

Method For The "Filling":
7. Spread the mascarpone over the base of the tart and sprinkle 50g light brown sugar over the cheese.
8. Place the plums, cut side up, in neat concentric circles in the tart shell. Cowd the fruits, but do not overlap.
9. Sprinkle the cinnamon and leftover sugar over the fruits.
10. Bake for about 40 to 50 minutes, until the fruits are soft and the crust is golden brown.
11. Cool on a wire rack.
12. Serve.

Remarks:
You can replace half of the plain flour by whole wheat flour and the castor sugar by light brown sugar.
For this recipe I used quetsch plums (the best plums, in my opinion), but any other type of plum (fresh or frozen) or fruit (pluots, mirabelles, apples, pears, peaches, etc...) will do.

Serving suggestions:
Serve for tea time or dessert, with a glass of Porto or a cup of tea.
Drizzle a little runny honey over the top of the tart if  you find that it is not sweet enough for your taste.

Tarte Aux Prunes Et Au Mascarpone
Recette par Rosa Mayland, Novembre 2012.

Pour 4 à 6 personnes.

Ingrédients Pour La "Pâte A Scones":
338g de Farine
38g de Sucre cristallisé
2 CC de Poudre à lever/pâte
1 CC de Sel de mer fin
75 g de Beurre non salé
Assez de lait pour former une boule de pâte
Ingrédients Pour La "Garniture":
250g de Mascarpone, ramolli
120g de Cassonade
740g de Prunes, coupées en deux et dénoyautées
Cannelle en poudre, selon goût

Méthode Pour La "Pâte A Scone":
1. Préchauffer le four à 190 ° C et graisser un moule à tarte de 28cm de diamètre.
2. Mélanger ensemble la farine, la poudre à lever et le sel, puis ajouter le beurre et frotter la farine et le beurre entre les doigts afin d'obtenir un mélange qui ait une texture sabloneuse.
3. Incorporer le sucre.
4. Verser le lait, graduellement, tout en mélangeant bien (ne plus ajouter de lait quand la pâte aura atteint la bonne consistance/ni trop mouillée, ni trop collante) et former une boule.
5. Etaler la pâte et garnir votre moule à tarte avec.
6. Couper les bords qui dépassent et piquer le fond de la tarte avec une fourchette.

Méthode Pour La "Garniture":
7. Etaler le mascarpone sur la base de la tarte et saupoudrer avec 50g de cassonade.
8. Garnir avec les prunes (côté coupé vers le haut et placée en cercles concentriques bien serrés).
9. Saupoudrer avec la cannelle et le sucre restant.
10. Cuire pendant environ 40 à 50 minutes, jusqu'à ce que les fruits soient tendres et que la pâte soit bien dorée.
11. Laisser refroidir sur une grille.
12. Servir.

Remarques:
Vous pouvez remplacer la moitié de la farine par de la farine complète et le sucre cristallisé par du sucre brun clair.
Pour cette recette j'ai utilisé des quetsches, mais n'importe quelles prunes (fraîches ou congelées) feront l'affaire. Bien entendu, d'autres fruits peuvent être utilisés (pluots, mirabelles, pommes, poires, pêches, etc...).

Suggestions d'accompagnement:
Servir à l'heure du thé ou pour le dessert, avec un verre de Porto ou une tasse de thé.
Si vous trouvez que la tarte n'est pas assez sucrée à votre goût, arosez-la d'un filet de miel liquide.

QUESTCH PLUM ETON MESS - NO MATTER WHAT HAPPENS IN THE KITCHEN, KEEP UP THAT WARRIOR SPIRIT

A cook, when I dine, seems to me a divine being, who from the depths of his kitchen rules the human race. One considers him as a minister of heaven, because his kitchen is a temple, in which his ovens are the altar.
- Marc Antoine Désaugiers

Even though being betrayed by your camera or computer, denied access to your blog platform, or lacking all inspiration is bad enough, having your cooker die on you is probably one of the worst things that any foodblogger and pastry lover can experience as it leaves you feeling completely lost and powerless. Without this essential piece of home appliance (my personal favorite together with my KA), your major working tool, you are absolutely nothing! Well, that's exactly what happened to me not long ago. A terrible and stressful nightmare especially if you are quasi-penniless and cannot afford to buy a replacement straight away.

It all started the day my basic and not so posh, yet beloved 14 years old Bosch oven decided that he was getting tired of the relentless (over)use I made of him and merciless treatment he was getting, so he took revenge on me by gradually falling to pieces until he finally fell “dead” on a sunny afternoon in August. What a Machavellian rascal!

Firstly, the left oven door spring broke, then shortly after the right-side spring crumbled into tiny pieces, and as a result I had to keep the door shut by placing a stool in front of it. Of course, the next catastrophe inevitably had to take place during an absent-minded moment ]..[

So, if you are interested in reading more about my oven misadventures and eager to discover my new recipe, then please head over to the The Rambling Epicure, a daily international food chronicle and online newspaper for which I am a freelance writer and ponder on the meaning as well as significance of food in everyday life. There you'll find my latest article "The Warrior Cook And Quetsch Plum Eton Mess" which I hope you'll enjoy...

Etant donné que beaucoup de mes lecteurs francophones ne comprennent pas forcément l'anglais et que malheureusement peu d'entre-eux auront la chance de lire mon dernier billet en date sur The Rambling Epicure, je me suis permise de traduire la recette qui y figure afin que vous puissiez aussi en profiter car je pense qu'elle pourra vous intéresser.

J'espère que mon "Eton Mess Aux Quetsches" vous plaira car c'est un dessert de saison qui est divinement succulent et merveilleusement parfumé. Cette spécialité figure au patrimoine britannique et a vu le jour dans les années 30 à la très élitiste et select Université d'Eton. A l'origine, il était servi avec des fraises, des bananes et de la glace. La version que nous connaissons actuellement (avec la meringue et uniquement de la crème ainsi que des fruits) est apparue bien plus tard. De nos jours, ce pouding est encore servi lors de la traditionnelle remise des prix de fin d'année académique...

Bien entendu, l'Eton Mess (ou le "bazar d'Eton") que je vous présente ici aujourd'hui est une adaptation revampée de cette gourmandise que j'ai concoté lorsque je me suis retrouvée sans four pendant quelques semaines (il a bien fallu improviser). Un pur délice!

Eton Mess Aux Quetsches
Recette par Rosa Mayland, septembre 2012.

Pour 4 verrines/personnes.

Ingrédients:
240g de Compote de questches
4 +1 Meringues de la Gruyère (ou n'importe quelles autres meringues du commerce)
170g de Ricotta
180g de Crème aigre/fraîche/sûre 35g de Sucre glace
2 Pincées de Poivre long en poudre
2 CS de Pistaches hachées, pour la garniture
 
Méthode:
1. Mettre la ricotta, la crème, le sucre glace et la poudre de poivre long dans le bol de votre batteur électrique. Battre jusqu'à formation de pics mous et obtention d'une consistance mousseuse.
3. Verser 1 cuillère à soupe de la compote dans le fond de chaque verrine, étaler environ 2 cuillères à soupe du mélange ricotta/crème, puis grossièrement émietter 1/3 d'une meringue sur le dessus (une meringue par verrine).
4. Répéter le processus avec le reste des ingrédients.
5. Garnir le dessus des verrines avec 1/4 de la meringue restante (la 5ième) et saupoudrer avec 1/4 des pistaches hachées.
6. Servir immédiatement.

Remarques: 
Veuillez vous assurer que la compote de prunes n'est pas trop liquide (faite avec des prunes et de sucre seulement - sans ajout d'eau).
Si vous le souhaiteez, vous pouvez préparer vos propres meringues suisses (voir la recette). Les miennes ont été achetées dans le commerce car lors de le préparation de ce dessert mon four était hors-service.
La crème aigre/fraîche/sûre peut être remplacé par de la crème double et le poivre long par tout autre épice de votre choix (vanille, cannelle, piment de la Jamaïque, tonka, etc ..).

Suggestions d'accompagnement:
Servir comme dessert avec un verre de vin blanc pétillant (Champagne, Moscatto, Clairette de Die, etc ..) ou une tasse de café.

VICTORIA SANDWICH - A GUEST POST FOR SIA AT "MONSOON SPICE"

I haven’t been following Sia’s site for very long (only a few months), but the little time I have spent on her swell blog has only been placed under the sign of pure enchantment and discovery. Her fragrant dishes look delectable, are always so exotic sounding and a real novelty to me, and the pictures, although free of useless frilly embellishment, are pretty, moody, luminous, colorful and reflect the creator’s straightforwardness. A true breath of fresh air and an awesome source for meat-free Indian recipes. I love everything about the poetically named “Monsoon Spice”. So, the day Sia asked me to write a guest post for her, I was overcome with joy and so thrilled at the prospect of appearing on her truly brilliant space!

This statuesque young woman and mum of one was born and brought up in a beautiful coastal city of Mangalore in the Southern Indian state of Karnataka where she was introduced, at a very tender age, to authentic and traditional Indian cuisine by her grandmother, mother and half a dozen aunties in a typical Indian joint family. Six years ago, when she moved to the UK with her husband, her passion for food and culinary knowledge started to grow increasingly.

After a hectic beginning as a cook, numerous SOS phone calls to her mother, a lot of panicking, a few burning accidents and a lot of running around like a headless chicken trying to find her notes, Sia decided to create a site where she would catalogue all her recipes and findings online. That's how “Monsoon Spice” saw the light of day in 2006.

Her husband K. is her main inspiration and motivation behind her blog as he eats what she cooks, but is also her food critic and sous-chef. With the arrival of her son P. she is all the more inspired to cook fresh and healthy food that is strongly rooted in their Indian culture and traditions.

Having been asked to come up with something vegetarian and considering the fact that Sia is an inhabitant of the country of my roots (actually I have a dual nationality – I’m Anglo-Swiss), I thought that it would be a wonderful idea if I presented a delicacy on which my English mother has raised me and which occupies a special place in my heart: “Victoria Sandwich” (also called “Victoria Sponge”).

I am incredibly happy to share my fetish recipe as well as my memories with you here and I wish to warmly thank Sia for opening the doors of her platform to me. It is an honor to know you and to have my work hosted by such a fabulous blogger like you!

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I’ve always cherished my British heritage as well as Great Britain’s uniquely comforting and regional cuisine. It has a sentimental value to me as it reminds me of my beloved Nan and Pop who passed away a short while ago. Now that both my grandparents have gone on to glory and I have no family nor pied-à-terre left there anymore, I tend to venerate anything that hails from this gloriously green island in the North Atlantic Ocean.

Whenever I feel nostalgic of England and need to uplift my soul, this incomparably ambrosial, moist and featherlight torte always brings a smile to my lips and tempers my sadness. It has this marvelously soothing granny-style flavor that never fails to bring back fond remembrances of the unforgettable moments spent in the company of my grandma and grandpa during my childhood summer holidays in Warwickshire (Stratford-Upon-Avon) and Derbyshire (Belper).

“I'm not a total dead loss as a woman. I can't knit or make plum jam but I can bake a bloody victoria sponge.”
- Chris, “Calendar Girls”.

My grandmother Jean was a talented home cook and baker who had the gift for baking a mean “Victoria Sandwich” along with exquistely fluffy scones (amongst other things) on the occasion of friends’ visit. As any honorable English person, those were invariably accompanied by a nice cuppa and some cheerful chatting - something the people of this archipelago do to perfection.

I also remember seeing the generous array of mouthwatering and tempting cakes that were magnificently put on display in the quaint Peak District tearooms we went to. In such magical places, it is difficult to remain unmoved, especially if you are a voracious little girl (or grownup, to that matter) with an insatiable appetite for rich, floury goodies decorated with thick layers of icing/frosting and mountains of whipped cream. Pa-ra-dise! [...] 

So, if that short introduction made your mouth water and your tastebuds tingle, tickled your curiosity, captivated your attention and gave you the urge to read my article, then please hop on over to "Monsoon Spice" in order to read the whole article, get a glimpse of my pictures, discover my recipe and have a look at Sia's great site.

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Etant donné que beaucoup de mes lecteurs francophones ne comprennent pas forcément l'anglais et que malheureusement peu d'entre-eux auront la chance de lire mon billet invité et dernier article en date sur le joli blog “Monsoon Spice” qui appartient à ma talentueuse collègue indienne Sia, je me suis permise de traduire la recette qui y figure afin que vous puissiez aussi en profiter car je pense qu'elle pourra vous intéresser (vous pouvez tout de même y jeter un coup d'oeil car ses recettes sont vraiment passionnantes et mon article contient d'autres images que celles exposées ici).

J'espère que mon "Gâteau Victoria" à la crème et à la compote de prunes vous plaira car c'est un gâteau très British, merveilleusement raffiné et divinement bon. Cette création personnelle adaptée du magazine Delicious est une ode à la cuisine Anglaise qui est unique, si réconfortante, fabuleusement savoureuse, humble et qui est loin d'être insipide/fade, peu délicate et inintéressante comme le prétendent certaines personnes mal-attentionnées et à l'esprit étroit. Ce cliché est vieillissant et dépassé de mode...

~ Gâteau Victoria ~

Recette adaptée du magazine Delicious.

Pour 4-5 personnes.
Donne un gâteau de 18cm.
Temps de préparation: un peu moins de 30 minutes.
Temps de cuisson: 35-40 minutes.

Ingrédients Pour Le "Gâteau":
175g de Beurre non salé, à température ambiante (+ supplément pour graisser le moule)
175g de Sucre cristallisé
175g d'Oeufs 175g (~ 3 gros, voir les commentaires)
1 CC d'Extrait de vanille pure
175g de Farine
1 CC de Poudre à pâte/lever (pas bombée)
1/4 de Sel de mer fin
3 CS de Lait
Ingrédients Pour La "Garniture":
6 CS de Compote de fruits ou de confiture (j'ai utilisé de la compote de prunes)
8 CS de Crème fouettée
Sucre glace, pour saupoudrer sur le dessus du gâteau

Méthode:
1. Préchauffer le four à 180 º C.
2. Coupez un disque de papier sulfurisé de 18cm, recouvrir la base du moule à charnière avec  et beurrer.
3. Mélanger ensemble la farine, la poudre à pâte et le sel. Mettre de côté.
4. Mettre le beurre dans un bol (ou le bol de votre batteur) avec le sucre semoule et battre ensemble jusqu'à ce que le mélange soit léger, pâle et mousseux.
5. Ajouter un oeuf à la fois, en battant bien après chaque ajout. Puis incorporer l'extrait de vanille.
6. Tamiser la farine et l'incorporer délicatement.
7. Ajouter suffisamment de lait afin d'obtenir une pâte qui tombe en "ruban" quand on la laisse couler de la spatule.
8. Verser la pâte dans le moule et lisser le dessus avec une spatule.
9. Cuire au centre du four pendant environ 35-40 minutes ou jusqu'à que le gâteau soit doré et que la pointe d'un couteau insérée en son centre en ressorte propre.



10. Laisser refroidir dans le moule pendant 10 minutes et démouler sur une grille recouverte d'un torchon en coton propre (afin d'éviter que la gâteau ait des marques), puis retirer le papier sulfurisé. Laisser refroidir complètement.
11. Couper le gâteau en deux, horizentalement et placez le partie inférieure du gâteau sur un présentoire/plat à gâteau. Tartiner généreusement avec la crème fouettée, puis avec la compote/confiture et couvrir avec la partie supérieure du gâteau.
12. Juste avant de servir, saupoudrer de sucre glace.

Remarques:
Toujours casser les œufs dans un bol et les peser avant de peser les autres ingrédients. Si jamais ils sont plus légers (ou lourds) que 175g, réduire (ou augmenter) la masse de beurre, de sucre et de farine en conséquence, afin que les quatre ingrédients aient le même poids que les oeufs.
Si vous n'aimez pas la confiture de framboise et vous voulez être aventureux, vous pouvez utiliser la garniture (compote de prunes, lemon curd, confiture de marrons/vermicelles, crème pâtissière, Nutella, etc ...) de votre choix.
Les gâteaux cuits, refroidis et non sandwichés (et non coupés en deux) peuvent être congelés pendant 3 mois au maximum.

Idée de présentation:
Servir ce gâteau pour le dessert ou à l'heure du goûter avec une tasse de thé ou de café.

DELUXE TRADITIONAL ENGLISH TRIFLE - TRIFLE ANGLAIS TRADITIONNEL

I am very proud to have British blood (Viking too, as England was invaded by the Danes and under the Danelaw for more than a century) running through my veins and therefore I have a strong attraction for the culture of my ancestors, hence if you are no stranger to my writings you must already know that I am an ardent and passionate defender of the cuisine of my country of origin as I believe that English food is highly underrated and still gets an undeserved as well as unfair bad rap (read this article)...

"There is no such thing as bad food/cuisine, only lousy cooks using low-grade ingredients and crappy recipes!"
- Rosa Mayland, 2011

"She did not so much cook as assassinate food."
- Storm Jameson (1891-1986)

I am totally certain that people's negative vision and quasi-xenophobic stereotyping of this astounding island's unique specialities comes from the fact that they haven't yet tasted the real deal and have only eaten unfortunate dishes that were very badly prepared by untalented and clueless "cooks". When you come across disgusting chew, remember that you must never blame the cooking customs of a country, but rather the one who has created such abominable grub. Therefore, it is unjust to judge the gastronomy of a place when you haven't fed on the right fares.
 

Believe it or not, in the past, Great Britain was avant-gardish and its culinary legacy used to have a good reputation, but regretfully certain recent events in history have damaged it considerably. For all those of you who smirk when they hear that and doubt this affirmation, it has to be said that ancient hearty, humble, scrumptious and more recent colonially-tinted British food has, in its time, inspired the rest of the world for many years. Did you know that the Anglo-Saxons developed meat and savoury herb stewing techniques before the practice became common in the rest of Europe, that the Norman conquest introduced exotic spices during the Middle Ages and that the British Empire facilitated a knowledge of India's elaborate kitchen traditions of pungent, penetrating spices and herbs? I'm pretty sure not. Well, that is a detail all haters and foulmouthed criticizers must be conscious of before they start bringing Brit cooking down in flames and spreading false propaganda.

"There is much deliciousness in the British Isles; you just have to find it..."
- Fergus Hendersen

In days of yore, the peninsula was influenced by foreign invaders like the Vikings (from Scandinavia, but especially from Danemark), the Romans (from Italy) and even the Franco-Normans (from France) who all brought with them a melting pot of ingredients and foods to the English table, and imported new cooking methods and ideas.

Thanks to the French asilants, medieval English cookery abunded with recipes containing exotic seasonings such as saffron, mace, nutmeg, pepper, ginger and sugar. Many traditional recipes are still made nowadays and this heritage can be found in many contemporary treats such as "Christmas Pudding", "Christmas Cake", "Hot Cross Buns", "Mince Pies", etc... Then, with the colonization of far-away regions of the globe by the Empire tea was imported from India and British citizens started getting obssessed by curries, condiments and spicy sauces which are now an integral part of the rich and impressive food culture of England. In addition, immigrant workers have massively contributed to expanding this land's culinary horizon. Open-mindedness, assimilation and intergration has always been part of this nation's characteristics and that is why the term "fusion" is not alien to its folks.

Unfortunately, much harm was inflicted on English gastronomy throughout the Industrial Revolution, WWI, WWII and poor economic eras (1970's especially). During the 18th and 19th century, nobody had time to spend time in the kitchen and Britain was in the forefront of canned foods as well as other mechanical preservation methods. From 1914 until early into the 1950’s, little food was left for private consumption (rationing of meat, sugar, butter and eggs). As a result, the decline of quality produces and meals became flagrant. Sadly, it is then that Great Britain acquired its status as gastronomic joke worldwide.

"British food has not traditionally been regarded as one of the world's great cuisines, and yet Stilton cheese, Scottish raspberries, Goosnargh duck and Welsh lamb are internationally renowned and celebrated. And then there are all those dishes and recipes that inspire passionately loyaltly among the initiated: Whitby lemon buns and banoffi pie, for example; pan haggerty and Hendersen's relish. All are as integral of the country's landscape as green fields, rolling hills and rocky costaline."
- Andrew Webb, "Food Britannia"

Although England's period of culinary disgrace lasted long, the joke is finally starting to get forgotten. One can now witness an extraordinary comeback in popularity of British food and the world cannot stop speaking about the archipelago's magnificent regional produces, fine dishes, awesome chefs and renowned restaurants/gastropubs. This change of situation brings me happiness because I wish that more folks out there will be able to get initiated to the proper stuff and discover as well as appreciate what I have been treasuring all my life. Light has definitely to be made on this important part of England's patrimony. My dream is that others learn to enjoy and respect it as much as I do...

You've got to understand that I have been literally brought up on the finest English specialities (made by expert hands too) and everything that ever graced my plate has been a real feast for my taste buds and a total enchantment. My grandparents, their friends and my mother have never deceived me when it comes to being terrific home chefs and introducing me to Britain's best recipes. This is the reason why I cannot accept that certain mean and uneducated individuals continue to spread false rumors about a gastronomy they don't grasp/understand at all and have not experienced correctly (just because it is your opinion and you don't like certain dishes, doesn't mean that they are horrible or make a generality)!

So, today, I wish to share with you my personal recipe for "Trifle" as this  old-fashioned delight deserves all your attention, especially if it is put together with a lot of loving care and without speeding up steps or forgetting that quality must always rule in the kitchen.

This sweet course is very popular at the moment and it is not rare to see excellent recipes for it in overseas magazines or on international blogs. Most of the time I find them interesting and mouthwatering, but I must admit that I often feel a little frustrated as most of them are too simplistic, a pale copy and lazy interpretation of the original. Besides, it is still not rare to watch a TV programm ("Come Dine with Me" on Channel 4) and see somebody shamelessly offering their chokingly disgusting and terrifyingly industrial 1970 version of that classic (low-grade store-bought cake, custard from a can or a packet, additive-laden jelly, Spanish greenhouse-grown strawberries and whipped cream from a tube). A true disgrace!

For those who have not the slightest idea regarding what a "Trifle is, then here's a short explaination. The origin of the name can be traced back to 1596 and it refers to a sweet course - very similar to a "Fool" - made with thick cream flavored with sugar, ginger and rosewater. It is only sixty years later that milk was added and the custard was poured over alcohol-soaked leftover bread. From then on, it hasn't stopped evolving in order to become the pudding we are all accustomed to seeing these days. And contrarily to common belief, the inclusion of gelatin is not a recent variation. In reality, the earliest known recipe to include jelly dates from 1747.

Despite being quite a straight-forward interpretation of the original recipe, my "Deluxe Traditional English Trifle" is nonetheless a personal creation and is quirkier and more versatile than the typical layered pud served by your granny. Mine has no trace of that repulsively wobbly mass (I adore homemade jelly, but find it not to be a must in "Trifle" since it adds nothing much to it and generally is not liked by most munchers), abominable factory-made custard or of any fertilizer-boosted fruits, the pound cake has been baked by myself (you could also use "Ladyfingers" or "Sponge Cake"), it is spiked with Port rather than Sherry, can be adapted to all seasons and contains some extra lemon juice as well as zest for more freshness, sharpness and piquantness. And finally, but not lastly, each of its components are homemade from scratch, so it is a top-notch delicacy. It is so refreshing, fruity, smooth, regressive, exquisite and addictive that I have converted my 100% Swiss boyfriend into a trifle-aholic like me...

~ Deluxe Traditional English Trifle ~
Recipe by Rosa Mayland, November 2011.

Ingredients For The "Cakes":
85g (3oz) Unsalted butter, at room temperature
85g (3oz) Castor sugar
2 Eggs (~ 63g)

1 Tsp Pure vanilla extract
125g (4.5oz) All-purpose flour
1 Tsp Baking powder
1/4 Fine sea salt
3 Tbs Whole milk 

Ingredients For The "Pastry Cream":
2 1/4 Cups (540ml) Whole milk
1/3 Tsp Fine sea salt
4 Tbs Cornstarch
1/2 Cup (110g) Castor sugar
2 Big eggs (~ 70g)
1 1/2 Tsp Pure vanilla extract

4 Tbs Unsalted butter, cut in small cubes
Ingredients For "Assembling The Trifle":
2 1/4 - 1/2 Cups (810 - 900g) Fruit compote (see comments)
2 Lemond (organic)
1 Tbs Light brown sugar
Red Port, to taste
1 Cup (250ml) Double cream (35%), whipped

1/2 Cup (90g) Matchstick almonds, toasted

Method For The "Cakes":
1. Preheat the oven to 180° C (350° F), then grease two 3x6 inches rectangular cake tins and
line the bases with baking paper.
2. Mix together the sifted flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
3. Cream the butter and sugar together in a bowl until pale, light and fluffy.
4. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating the mixture well between each addition and a tablespoon of the flour with the last egg to prevent the mixture from curdling and separating. Then, mix in the vanilla extract.
5. Incorporate the flour mixture by gently folding it in the egg mixture and add enough milk to obtain a batter that falls reluctantly from the spoon.
6. Spoon the mixture into the prepared tins, level the top and bake for 30-35 minutes or until golden and a skewer inserted in the centre of each cake comes out clean.
7. Let cool in the pan for ten minutes before turning out on to a wire rack and leaving to cool completely.
Method For The "Pastry Cream":
1. Put the milk and salt in a pan, bring to a light boil.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, eggs and vanilla extract until smooth, fluffy and light in color.
3. While constantly whisking, slowly pour the milk into the egg mixture.
4. Return the whole to the saucepan.
5. Over medium heat and while whisking non-stop, cook until you get a thick consistency (just bring to a slight boil).
6. Remove from heat and pour into a bowl. Let cool for 10 minutes and then incorporate the butter, a little at a time, until the pastry cream is smooth and shiny .
7. Cover the surface with clingplastic, directly touching the cream. Let cool completely before placing in the refrigerator.

Method For "Assembling The Trifle":
1. Cut the cake into slices (0.5 - 0.8mm/0.2 - 0.3 inches) and whisk the pastry cream until smooth again. Set aside.
2. Zest both lemons and juice them, then mix the zest as well as juice together with the brown sugar. Set aside.
3. Put 1/3 of the cake in the bottom of the bowl. Pour 1/3 of the lemon juice mixture on to it and do the same with the Port.
4. Spread 1/3 of the compote over the cake, then spread 1/3 of the pastry cream over it.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times and then top with the whipped cream.
6. Put into the fridge to chill.
7. Before serving, sprinkle with the toasted almonds.

Comments:

Of course, I am quite aware that the fruit sauce I used is not in season anymore, but be reassured, mine came from the stock I have in my freezer. It can easily be replaced by the puree of your choice (cranberry, apple, pear, orange, chestnut, etc…).

The cake can be made up to two days in advance and kept tightly wrapped in clingfilm or frozen for up to 3 months.
The pastry cream as well as the compote can also be made ahead and kept in the fridge for up to 5 days.
I recommend that you chill the trifle for at least 4 hours (overnight is even better) before serving as then the flavors can fully develop.

Keep the trifle in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Serving suggestions:
Serve for dessert with a good cup of strong coffee, a glass of liquor or sweet wine.

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~ Trifle Anglais Traditionnel Revisité ~
Recette Par Rosa Mayland Novembre 2011.

Ingrédients Pour Le "Gâteau":
85g de Beurre non-salé, à température ambiante
85g de Sucre cristallisé

1 CC d'Extrait de vanille pure
2 Oeufs (~ 63g)
125g de Farine
1 CC de Poudre à pâte/lever
1/4 de Sel de mer fin
3 CS de Lait entier
Ingrédients Pour La "Crème pâtissière":
540ml de Lait entier
1/3 CC de Sel de mer fin
4 CS de Maïzena (fécule de maïs)
110g de Sucre cristallisé
2 Gros oeufs (~ 70g)
1 1/2 CC d'Extrait de vanille pure
60g de Beurre non-salé, coupé en petits cubes
Ingrédients Pour "Assembler le Trifle":
810-900g de Compote de fruits (voir commentaires)
2 Citrons (bio)
1 CS de Sucre brun clair
Porto rouge, selon au goût
250ml de crème double, fouettée
90g d'Amandes allumettes, torréfiées

Méthode Pour le «gâteau»:
1. Préchauffer le four à 180 ° C (350 ° F), puis beurrer 2 moules à cake rectangulaires de 8x15cm et recouvrir les fonds de papier sulfurisé.
2. Mélanger ensemble la farine tamisée, la poudre à pâte et le sel. Réserver.
3. Dans un bol moyen, battre le beurre et le sucre en pommade (le mélange doit être pâle et léger).
4. Ajouter les oeufs, un à un, en les incorporant complétement après chaque ajout. Ajouter une cuillère à soupe de farine avec le dernier œuf afin d'éviter que le mélange se sépare, puis incorporer l'estrait de vanille.
5. Incorporer la farine en pliant délicatement et ajouter assez de lait afin d'obtenir une pâte qui tombe de la cuillère (mais qui n'est pas liquide - telle une pâte à gâteau ordinaire).

6. Répartir la pâte également dans les moules, lisser et cuire cuire pendant 30-35 minutes ou jusqu'à ce que les gâteaux soient dorés et que la lame d'un couteau insérée en leur centre en ressorte propre.
7. Laisser refroidir dans les moules pendant dix minutes avant de démouler. Laisser refroidir sur un grille.
Méthode pour la "Crème pâtissière":
1. Mettre le lait et le sel dans une casserole, porter à ébullition (tout juste).
2. Dans un grand bol, battre ensemble le sucre, la fécule, les oeufs et la vanille jusqu'à ce le mélange soit pâle et mousseux.
3. Tout en fouettant constamment, verser lentement le lait dans le mélange (tempérage).
4. Verser l'ensemble dans la casserole.
5. À feu moyen et en fouettant en continu, faire cuire jusqu'à obtention une consistance épaisse, lisse et crémeuse.
6. Après ébullition, retirer du feu et versez dans un bol. Laisser refroidir pendant 10 minutes puis incorporer le beurre, un peu à la fois, jusqu'à ce que la crème pâtissière soit lisse et brillante.
7. Couvrir la surface avec du film plastique (toucher directement la crème pâtissière). Laisser refroidir complètement avant de placer dans le réfrigérateur.

Méthode Pour "Assembler Le Trifle":
1. Couper les gâteaux en tranches de 0.6-0.8mm et fouetter la crème pâtissière jusqu'à obtention d'une consistance lisse. Mettre de côté.
2. Prélever le zeste des deux citrons et les presser, puis mélanger le zeste et le jus avec le sucre brun. Mettre de côté.
3. Mettre 1/3 des tranches dans le fond du bol. Mouiller avec 1/3 du jus de citron et de faire la même chose avec le porto.
4. Étaler 1/3 de la compote sur les tranches de cake, puis étaler 1/3 de la crème pâtissière sur cette dernière.
5. Répétez les étapes 3 et 4 encore deux fois, puis décorer le dessus du trifle avec la crème fouettée.
6. Mettre au réfrigérateur.
7. Avant de servir, saupoudrer avec les amandes.

Commentaires:
Les prunes ne sont plus de saison (j'avais préparé cette recette lorsqu'ils était encore de saison), mais vous pouvez remplacer cette compote par la compote de votre choix (pommes, poires, cranberries, orange, châtaignes, etc...).

Les gâteaux peuvent être faits 2 jours à l'avance et enveloppés dans un film plastique ou congelés (maximum 3 mois).
La crème pâtissière ainsi que la compote peuvent également être préparées à l'avance et conservées au réfrigérateur pendant 5 jours maximum.
Je vous recommande de réfrigérer le trifle pendant au moins 4 heures (c'est encore meilleur après une nuit au réfrigérateur) avant de servir car de cette manière les saveurs peuvent se développer complètement.

Conserver pas plus de 2 jours au frigo.

Idées de présentation:
Servir pour le dessert avec une bonne tasse de café, un verre de liqueur ou de vin liquoureux.