Friday, October 30, 2009

A TRIP TO LYON - PARTIII

As Lyon is very famous for it's unique gastronomy and is labeled the French capital of eating, I could not imagine going there without tasting to what makes it's reputation so strong: bouchons bistros and Lyon's local specialities. For any foodie, going to Lyon is a little like doing a pilgrimage to the Mekka of good taste.

Bouchons are authentic old restaurants (the tradition came from small inns visited by silk workers passing through Lyon in the 17th and 18th century) that can only be found in Lyon and that serve traditional regional dishes such as sausages, duck pa, pork products, soft cheese with herbs ("Cervelle de Canut"), Saint-Marcellin and Saint-Félicien cheeses, tripe products, fried pork fat, beignets ("Bugnes"), offals, cardoon, quenelles dumplings, lemon tart, parline tart and many more.

The Lyonnaise cuisine dating back to the intuitive cooking of those famous robust cooks the "mères lyonnaises (Lyon mothers)" who gave Lyon's cuisine its very special character is simple, rich, homey and tasty.

So, after doing a lot of research on the net and reading many blog or magazine articles on the subject, I decided to try the "Café des Fédérations" which is certified "authentic" by the organisation Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnaiss and is one of the oldest bouchons in Lyon and still one of the best.

Having read about this bouchon's convivial atmosphere and the owner's gift of the gab which are so common in this kind of restaurant, we both felt slightly uneasy at the thought of entering it. Anyway, we finally were able to gather enough courage in order to push the door of "Café des Féderations". Upon entering, we immediately got transported into the magical world of bouchons and we were greeted by a very chatty Yves Rivoiron who already made a joke after we had said "Bonjour. Nous avons réservé une table." (Hello. We have booked table) to which he answered in his own teasing way "Are you sure? I am not! Mmmmhhh, let's see if there's a table for you.". Very folkloric and kind of cliché, but so "exotic" and entertaining.

We just had time to install ourselves that we were already served (lentil salad, veal's head in vinaigrette, an assortiment of dried meats with gherkins, bread and a pitcher red Morgon wine and one of water). Then we had to choose our main dish among tête de veau (veal's head), pork cheeks stew, tablier de sapeur (the flat cut of tripe which has been cut into a rectangle and fried), andouillette (chitterling sausage), chicken in vinegar, quenelle, boudin noir (blood sausage), gâteau de foies de volaille (poultry liver cake, prepared with the white livers from the poulet de Bresse).

As I din't want to take the same dish as my boyfriend as I wanted to sample their food, I ordered "Andouillette" which was served in a delicious mustard sauce and accompanied by one of the best creamy "Gratin Dauphinois" I have ever come across out of home. Mr. P. took the gargantuesque "Boudin Noir" dish which was served with an immense pile of cooked apples.

Then, for dessert, we had the choice to take either a sweet speciality (lemon tart, homemade pear ice cream, chocolate mousse or praline tart) or a platter of regional cheeses. As we both were already full, we opted fot the dessert (lemon tart) which was scrumptious.

Needless to say that this meal was fantastic, comforting and scrumptious. We really enjoyed every dish as everything was perfect, tasty and so pleasing. Lunch for 2 was dirt cheap. We paid 50 Euros for a three course menu (appetizer, main dish & dessert) that included wine and coffees. And at the end of the meal, we were litterally exploding as the platings were very generous (We had to roll ourselves through the town for the rest of the day!!!).

If ever you are in Lyon, I strongly recommend you to go there and experience the unique and kitschy atmosphere of that place! It is so popular that t
he "Café des Fédérations" is full all the time and it is very difficult to find a free table if you haven't booked it in advance (which you'd better do at least 2 days before via phone or fax)...

An experience I am ready to renew anytime we go back to Lyon!

35 comments:

  1. I live in Lyon and I bookmarked the post so i can try this restaurant ! Thanks !

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  2. Thanks for this trip back to Lyon. I so love the old town and the bouchons - you captured the atmosphere perfectly. I regret not having visited this place but can still remember the delicious lyonnaise food and not being able to move afterwards.

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  3. influenced by your posts, I think I may be successful at convincing my husband to take me to Lyon next year. He just sent me links to some restaurants. I will send him your review of this place - sounds wonderful!

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  4. Sounds like a wonderful meal and a memorable experience! I'd love to visit Lyon some day.

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  5. A cette heure la lecture de ton article m'a donné très très faim et très envie de faire un petit tour à Lyon. Ce restaurant est vraiment une merveille. bises

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  6. ein wunderbarer Ort. Ich kannte bisher nur die Andouilette an Senfsauce, die ich einmal in Macon gegessen hatte.

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  7. What an absolutely wonderful description and photo journey through one of Lyon's great eating establishments. Loved it! Great blog post.

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  8. Magnifique ! On ressent bien l'ambiance des bouchons lyonnais dans ces photos !

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  9. thanks for yet another lovely visit to Lyon! I can't wait to go back there and really experience from the foodie perspective, which I've not. Def. ate, but like you have!

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  10. I love the cultural history in this post! And as always your pics are gorgeous!

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  11. Oh Rosa! Seems like a lot of fun and a wonderful gastronomic adventure...thanks for the recommendation!

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  12. tu nous donnes vraiment l'eau a la bouche avce ton ecapade!!

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  13. Oh, what a wonderful meal. I so envy you! It must have been a wonderful experience, Rosa.

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  14. You made to desire making a trip to Lyon!! Beautiful places :)
    Enjoy your weekend!!

    All the best,

    Gera

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  15. Ta série sur Lyon est magnifique!
    J'ai maintenant une folle envie de voyage:))

    Bon week-end!
    Isabelle

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  16. A Feast indeed. I nearly feel as if i was there with you. Wonderful description Rosa

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  17. Thanks for sharing your travel experiences to Lyon. Have a lovely weekend.

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  18. ..quelle bo voyage gourmand!!.. j'adorre!!!!!!

    ..merci de me faire rêver..

    ~mom Potter xx

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  19. cheese or tart, cheese or tart. you definitely made the right decision. :) thanks for the picture tour, and here's hoping i actually get to travel to lyon one day!

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  20. All look fantastic, Happy,happy hallowen and nice weekend Rosa, xxxgloria

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  21. beautiful!! looking forward to visit this place :)
    cheers!!

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  22. rosa
    apres ce repas ; une bonne balade en bord du fleuve!
    Pierre

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  23. Que de jolies photos, merci à toi Rosa et bonne semaine également ! bises

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  24. That sounds like a charming spot! Good food and a convivial atmosphere is all you can ask for. I love it when the proprietor takes an interest in the clientele.

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  25. Are you still in Lyon
    I live in Lyon and I can give you some "adresses" very funny and délicious

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  26. What a delightful and delicious experience!
    I can't help but feel as if I'm eons away from Lyons (which I am :-).
    But, for the time being, I'll gladly settle for your lovely virtual tour. Thanks my dear.

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  27. i have been to Lyon already but watching your pictures make me want to go back again there to enjoy all these delicious stuffs!!

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  28. sounds wonderful, lucky you, lovely photos, cheers

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  29. Thx Rosa, I will make a note of this resto to try out if I visit Lyon in the nr future.

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  30. I know this "bouchon". It's well known in Lyon. Very "authentique". Very "lyonnais". Excellent food. Very good address.

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  31. I love that big pile of apples. At first, I thought they were potatoes! But apples -- heck, even better. ;)

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  32. Hi Rosa
    Thanks for sharing these beautiful pictures.
    I would love to visit Lyon.
    Delicious food x

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  33. Les bouchons lyonnais, une véritable institution !

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