SULTAN'S DELIGHT - HUNKAR BEGENDI

Authentic food from the Middle-East really attracts me to the highest point. The aromatic, deep, rich, elegant and refined Arab cuisine of this region of the world intrigues me as it reflects the mysterious, bountiful and exotic cultures that originated it...

As Claudia Roden's gorgeous cookbook "Arabesque" has ignited my interest for Middle-Eastern gastronomy, I now feel the urge to expand my cookery book collection in that direction. So when I came across the reviews of Greg Malouf's "Turquoise - A Chef's Travel In Turkey" on the net, I knew that I had to add it to my ongrowing (yet still frustratingly small) selection of cookbook.

My very thoughful boyfriend consulted my wishlist and decided to offer me this big book for my birthday (last Xmas). What a wonderful gift for a food lover like me! It might be quite expensive, but it sure is worth every penny spent!

Last week, I invited my good friend Corinne for lunch and as I know she is a food enthusiast as well as a Middle Eastern gastronomy admirer like me, I decided to treat her with a 100% Turkish menu based on three recipes taken from that fabulous "bible". I made a "Tomato Salad With Tarragon, Feta And Sumac Dressing", a dish called "Sultan's Delight" and some "Yogurt And Honey Sorbet" with "Cinnamon And Vanilla Flavored Apricot Compote". Both of us were delighted by the wonderful dishes that the Turkish cuisine offers and ate with much appetite!

"Sultan's Delight" is a delicate and luscious speciality consisting of a "Lamb Ragoût" which is served over a "Cheesy Eggplant Purrée". According to legend, this very dish was served to the Empress Eugénie de Montijo, wife of Napoléon III, Emperor of the French, on a visit to Istanbul in 1869. As the Sultan Abdülaziz I wanted to impress his guest, he had many of his favorite dishes prepared, including this one. Eugénie liked it so much that she sent her own French chef to the palace kitchens in order to get the recipe. Unfortunately, the Sultan's chef was reluctant to give away his secrets and said that "an imperial chef needs only his heart, his eyes and his nose". Anyway, this popular dish (one of the most important of the Turkish cuisine) would not be served in restaurants around Turkey or cooked in many home if the recipe hadn't been shared somewhere down the line...

If you are still skeptical about that classic dish's amazing exquisitness, a mouthful it will be enough to convert you and make you understand why Eugénie fell in love with it or why the Sultan's chef was so protective when it came to sharing it with people outside of the palace! This spicy tomato and lamb stew pairs wonderfully well with the creamy and rich eggplant puree in order to create a unique as well as heavenly dish.

~ Sultan's Delight ~
Recipe by Greg Malouf "Turquoise: A Chef's Travel In Turkey" and adapted by Rosa @ Rosa's Yummy Yums.

Serves 4.

Ingredients for the "Lamb Ragoût":
700g Lamb (from the leg or shoulder)
40g Unsalted butter
2 Medium-big purple onions, cut into 1cm dice
3-4 Cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 Tsps Fresh oregano, chopped
1 Tsp Honey
2 Large vine-ripened tomatoes, skinned, seeded and diced
1 Tbs Hot Turkish red pepper paste (see remarks)
1 Tsp Sea salt
1/2 Tsp Freshly ground black pepper
250-300ml Chicken Stock
Flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to garnish
Ingredients for the "Cheesy Eggplant Purée":
2-3 Medium-big eggplants
90ml Thick cream
100g Gruyère, Cheddar, Kasseri or Comté cheese, grated
Good pinch of ground nutmeg
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Squeeze of lemon juice

Method for the "Lamb Ragoût":
1. Trim the lamb of any fat and sinew and cut into 3 cm cubes.
2. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based casserole dish over medium heat, then brown the lamb all over and remove from the pan.
3. If necessary, add a little more butter to the pan, then add the onion, garlic and oregano and sweat over a low heat for about 5 minutes.
4. Add the honey, then increase the heat and cook for another couple of minutes.
5. Stir in the tomatoes, pepper paste, salt, pepper and stock, the bring to the boil. Stir well and return the lamb to the pan.
6. Cover the pan, lower the heat and leave to slimmer very gently for 1-1 1/2 hours, or until the lamb is tender and the liquid has reduced to a thick sauce.
Method for the "Eggplant Purée":
7. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork and sit them directly on the naked flame of your stove top. Set the flame low-medium and cook for at least 15 minutes, turning constantly until the eggplants are charred all over and soft (see remarks).
8. Remove from the flame and place on a small wire rack in a sealed container or plastic bag so the juices can drain off. Allow the eggplants to cool for about 10 minutes.
9.When the eggplants are cool, gently peel away the skin from the flesh, taking care to remove every little bit or the purée will have a bitter burnt flavour.
10. Put the eggplants into a bowl of acidulated water and leave for 5 minutes-this soaks away any lingering bits of burnt skin and turns the flesh pale and creamy.
11. Drain the eggplants in a colander and squeeze them gently to extract any moisture, then chop very finely.
12. Bring the cream to the boil in a small saucepan and simmer for a couple of minutes to reduce slightly.
13. Stir in the cheese and nutmeg, then season with salt and pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.
14. Add the chopped eggplant and beat lightly to combine.
15. Taste and adjust the seasonings as required.

Remarks:
As I had not hot Turkish red pepper sauce, I used "Sambal Oelek".
If you don't have a gas stove, put the eggplants on a baking pan covered with parchment paper and bake them in the oven, at 250° C/480° F for about 40-50 minutes (turn them over after 25 minutes). You won't get quite the same smoky flavour, but the effect is reasonable.
If you wish, you can thicken the eggplant puree by using cornstarch (mix 1 1/4 Tbs in cream before boiling).

Serving suggestions:
To serve, spoon the eggplant purée into the centre of a warmed serving platter. Make a well in the centre of the purée and spoon in the lamb.
Garnish with parsley and serve hot with a salad, Ekmek or Pide bread.

***************

~ Délice Du Sultan ~
Recette par Greg Malouf "Turquoise: A Chef's Travel In Turkey", adaptée par Rosa @ Rosa's Yummy Yums.

Pour 4 personnes.

Ingrédients pour le "Ragoût d'Agneau":
700g d'Agneau (gigot ou épaule)
40g de Beurre non-salé
2 Oignons rouges (assez gros), pelés et coupés en cubes d'un 1cm
3-4 Gousses d'ail, finement hachées
2 CC d'Origan frais, haché
1 CC de Miel
2 Grosses tomates, épeluchées, vidées et coupées en cubes
1 CS de Pâte de piments forte turque (voir remarques)
1 CC de Sel de mer
1/2 CC de Poivre noir fraîchement moulu
250-300ml de Bouillon de poulet
Persil plat, haché, pour garnir
Ingrédients pour la "Purée d'Aubergine Au Fromage":
2-3 Aubergines, moyennemnt grosses
90ml de Crème double
100g de Gruyère, Cheddar, Kasseri ou Comté, rapé
Une bonne pincée de noix de muscade moulue
Sel de mer
Poivre noir, fraîchement moulu
Quelques gouttes de jus de citron

Méthode pour le "Ragoût d'Agneau":
1. Enlever le gras, les tendons et nerfs de l'agneau et couper la viande en morceaux/cubes de 3 cm cubes.
2. Dans une large casserole à fond épais, faire fondre le beurre à feu moyen, puis faire brunir la viande de chaque côté et la déposer dans une assiette
3. Si nécessaire, ajouter un peu plus de beurre dans la casserole, puis ajouter l'oignon, l'ail et l'origan. Faire suer sur feu doux pendant environ 5 minutes.
4. Ajouter le miel, puis augmenter la température et cuire pendant une à deux minutes supplémentaires.
5. Ajouter les tomates, le pâte de piments, le sel, le poivre et le bouillon. Bien mélanger et porter à ébullition.
6. Couvrir la casserole, baisser le feu et faire mijoter pendant 1 à 1 1/2 heures, ou jusqu'à ce que la viande soit tendre, que le liquide se soit évaporé et que la sauce soit épaisse.

Méthode pour la "Purée d'Aubergine":
7. A l'aide d'une fourchette piquer les aubergines un peu partout et les placer directement sur la flame (feu moyen) du fourneau et les cuire au moins 15 minutes en les retournant constamment jusqu'à ce qu'elles soient bien grillées de tous les côtés (voir remarques).
8. Retirer du feu et les déposer, emballées dans du papier journal pendant 10 minutes.
9. Quand les aubergines sont plus trop chaudes, enlever la peau de manière délicate et sans en laisser autrement la purée aura un goût amer.
10. Mettre les aubergines dans un bol d'eau froide acidulée et laisser tromper 5 minutes afin que les petits bouts de peau partent et que la chair devienne pâle et crémeuse.
11. Egoutter les aubergines dans un chinois et bien les presser afin qu'il ne reste plus de liquide, puis hacher la chair très finement.
12. Dand une casserole moyenne, porter la crème à ébullition et faire mijoter quelques minutes afin qu'elle se réduise un peu.
13. Ajouter le fromage et bien mélanger, puis assaisonner avec la noix de muscade, le sel et le poivre ainsi qu'avec quelques gouttes de jus de citron.
14. Ajouter les aubergines hachées et battre afin d'obtenir une purrée homogène.
15. Goûter et ajuster l'assaisonnement si nécessaire.

Remarques:
Comme je n'avais pas de pâte de piments forte turque, j'ai utilisé du "Sambal Oelek".
Si vous n'avez pas de fourneau à gaz, alors mettez les aubergines dans le four (milieu) à 250°C et cuisez-les pendant 40-50 minutes, en les retournant après 25 minutes. Vous n'obtiendrez pas le même goût fumé que lorsqu'elles sont grillées directement sur le feu, mais le résultat sera plus que correct.
Vous pouvez épaissir votre puree en utilisant de la maizena (mélanger 1 1/4 CS avec la crème avant cuisson).

Idées de présentation:
Mettez la purée au centre de votre assiette, puis faites un puits et mettez-y quelques cuillères de ragoût d'agneau. Garnissez avec le persil et servez chaud avec une salade ainsi qu'avec du pain Ekmek ou du pain Pide.

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS - GALETTES TURQUES

Being the spice addicted, Mediterranean as well as Middle Eastern cuisine lover that I am, I could just simply not live my life further without buying Claudia Roden's enchanting cookbook entitled "Arabesque: A Taste Of Morocco, Turkey and, Lebanon". That's why I ended up ordering that masterpiece from my favorite online retailer...

As Claudia Roden was born and raised in Cairo (Egypt) and knows that part of the world very intimately, all her recipes are authentic and taste real. Her marvelous dishes are very accessible, not fussy to make, yet they are delectable and have that sbtleness that characterizes the food of the Middle East.

"Arabesque: A Taste Of Morocco, Turkey and, Lebanon" is a very handy book that will be your perfect ally as thanks to it's in-depth quality content your palate is going to be spoilt, you'll travel through time and land without leaving your home, you'll discover exotic foods and you'll learn more about the culinary traditions of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon.

As I had some Feta cheese to use and tons of zucchinis in my fridge, I chose to cook a Turkish recipe that would combine both ingredients. Fritters are very popular in the Middle East and when you eat those easy to make "Zucchini Fritters", you understand why, as they are so divine.

Those delicate vegetable pancakes are very similar to the Jewish "Zucchini Latkes" (see info & recipes). They are fluffy and smooth in texture, like little pillows, and refined in taste. Their wonderful summery flavor comes from the exquisitely fragrant herbs which are used and the marvelous, light, yet sharp aroma of Feta cheese. Really mouthwatering!

That recipe offers you a great, fanciful as well as healthy way to accommodate zucchinis and serve a complete meal that will create a sensation at your table. Even the most stubborn vegetable hater will adore them!

Learn more about the Turkish cuisine and discover my "Lahmacuns - Turkish Pizzas" recipe by following this link: click here...

~ Zucchini Fritters (Kabak Mücveri) ~
Adapted from "Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon" by Claudia Roden.

Serves 3-4.

Ingredients:
1 Large onion, coarsely choppe
3 Tbs Vegetable or sunflower oil, plus more for frying
1 Pound (450g) Zucchini, finely chopped
3 Eggs (~60g)
3-4 Tbs All-purpose flour
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 to 3 Sprigs of mint, chopped
2 to 3 Sprigs of dill, chopped
7 Oz (210g) Feta cheese, mashed with a fork

Method:
1. Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat until it is soft and lightly colored.
2. Add the zucchini and sauté, stirring, until they, too, are soft.
3. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the flour until well blended.
4. Add pepper and the chopped herbs, and mix well.
5. Fold the mashed feta into the eggs, together with the cooked onions and zucchini.
6. Film the bottom of a preferably nonstick frying pan with oil and pour in the mixture by the half ladle (or 2 tablespoons) to make a few fritters at a time.
7. Turn each over once, and cook until both sides are browned a little.
8. Drain on paper towels and serve.

Remarks:
Chopping the zucchini finely means that you have to cut them into a "brunoise".
There is no need of salt because the feta cheese is already very salty. These little fritters can be served hot or at room temperature.
They can also be made in advance and reheated.
You could replace the zucchinis by chopped carrots or red/yellow bell peppers and the mint by flat parsley.

Serving suggestions:
Serve as a starter/appetizer (meze dish) with plain yoghurt or other Middle Eastern as well as Mediterranean specialities such as "Baba Ganoush", "Greek Tzatziki" and "Hummus".
You can also make a meal of that dish and serve it with the salad of your choice.

***************

~ Galettes Aux Courgettes ~
Recette tirée du livre "Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon" de Claudia Roden et adaptée par Rosa @ Rosa's Yummy Yums.

Pour 3-4 personnes.

Ingrédients:
1 Gros onion, haché grossièrement
3 CS d'Huile végétale ou d'huile de tournesol, et plus pour frire les galettes
450g de Courgettes, hachées finement
3 Oeufs (~60g)
3 CS de Farine blanche/fleur
Poivre noir moulu, à volonté
2 à 3 Brins de menthe, hachés
2 à 3 Brins d'Aneth, hachés
210g de Feta, écrasée avec une fourchette

Méthode:
1. Faites revenir l'onion haché dans 3 CS d'huile, à feu moyen, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit légèrement doré et cuit.
2. Ajouter les courgette hachées et faites revenir, tout en remuant constamment, jusqu'à ce qu'elles soient tendres.
3. Dans un bol, battre les oeufs avec la farine, jusqu'à obtention d'un mélange homogène.
4. Ajouter le poivre et les herbes hachées, puis bien mélanger.
5. Incorporer la féta au mélange oeufs/farine et faire de même avec les onions et la courgette.
6. Mettre de l'huile dans une poêle antiadhésive et y déposer 2 CS du mélange (faire quelques petit tas).
7. Retourner chaque galette et faire frire afin que les deux côtés soient dorés.
8. Mettre sur du papier absorbant et servir.

Remarques:
Vos courgettes doivent être coupées en brunoise.
Vous n'avez pas besoin de saler à cause de la féta. Ces petites galettes peuvent être mangées chaudes ou à température ambiante.
Elles peuvent aussi être préparées à l'avance et réchauffées.
Les cougettes peuvent être remplacées par des carottes ou des poivrons rouges/jaunes coupés en brunoise et la menthe par du persil plat.

Idées de présentation:
Servez cette spécialités pour l'apéritif (mezze) ou en tant qu'entrée avec du yaourt nature ou des plats méditérranéens ou moyen-orientaux tels que le "Baba Ganoush", le "Tzatziki" et le "Hummus".
Vous pouvez aussi en faire un repas complet si vous accompagnés ces galettes par une salade de votre choix.

LAHMACUNS - TURKISH "PIZZAS"

The foods of the Mediterranean and of the Middle East have always interested me, so it is very naturally that I directed myself towards the Ottoman (Turkish) cuisine for which I have a strong penchant...

The Turkish cuisine has inherited a lot from the Ottoman culture/Empire (1299-1922). It has been highly influenced by the Turkic (Central Asian), Armenian, Arabic, Persian and Greek cuisines. This heritage can be felt on Turkey's refined culinary tradition which is a fusion of the above-mentioned cuisines. But, we should not forget that Turkey has also influenced those cuisines as well as the one's of the Western European and of the neighboring countries.

Turkey has a variety of dishes and centuries old recipes that are regional, delicious, yet simple and homey. Turkish food is regarded as the world's great cuisines. The dishes are not too difficult to prepare, tasty and above all extremely affordable. Many fresh ingredients are used and there is no need to have high technical skills in order to cook something mighty delectable. Simplicity is the word, but it undeniably pairs with subtlety and delicacy!

Some of the most common ingredients of the Turkish cuisine are: dill, mint, parsley, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, cloves, paprika, fenugreek, saffron, salep, chili, garlic, onion, sumac, yoghurt, olive oil, cucumber, bell peppers, chickpeas, fava beans, okra, scallions, coriander, lamb, eggplants, spinach, walnuts, sesame seeds, orange flower water, rose water, honey, tomatoes, olives, white cheese (very much like Feta), eggs, rice, fish chicken, filo/yufka pastry and bread (Ekmek, Pide Simit, Manti and Börek).

"Lahmacuns or Lahmajouns" are a kind of Turkish "pizza" (also known as Armenian "pizza"). In Arabic this word means "meat with dough". It is an Anatolian and Middle Eastern dish made with an oven baked flat round and thin piece of dough topped with meat (lamb or beef), tomatoes, red bell peppers, onions, garlic, parsley and chili. It can be sprinkled with grated cheese and lemon juice...

This speciality is particularly interesting, appetizing and mouthwatering! Although it is made with very humble ingredients, the taste that results from the combination of all of them is extremely pleasing and delightful. It's exquisite flavor comes from the the sucessful alliance of bread and meat combined to the wonderful aromas confered by the bell peppers, tomatoes, parsley, onions and garlic. A winning mix that will have an effect on your tastebuds! It is a humble and unpretentious dish that can cast shadow on any so-called high-priced luxurious food, because it tastes "true", is tradition impregnated and levely like the people behind it's origins!

~ Lahmacuns ~
Recipe (for the basic filling) by Bebop at "Plaisir Des Papilles" (Switzerland) and adapted by Rosa @ Rosa's Yummy Yums

Makes about 10 "Lahmacuns".

Ingredients for the dough:
500g Plain white flour
1 1/2 Tsp Salt
1/2 Tsp Castor sugar
2 Tsps Dried yeast
240ml Lukewarm water
Ingredients for the filling:
2 Red peppers, cleaned and cubed
3 Cloves garlic. chopped
2 Onions, chopped
1 (1/3 - 1/2 Cup when chopped) Bunch parsley, chopped
400g Canned tomatoes
1-2 Tbs Tomato puree
1 Tsp Red Tabasco sauce
1/2 Tsp Ground paprika
1/2 Tsp Dried oregano (optional)
500g Ground beef
Sel, to taste
Poivre, to taste

~ Unbaked Lahmacun ~

Method for the dough:
1. Sift the flour and salt into a big bowl.
2. In a small bowl, mix the yeast together with 100ml water and the sugar.
3. Set aside for 5 minutes and then stir well.
4. Incorporate the yeasted water and the leftover water into the flour.
5. Mix well until you get a ball of dough.
6. Knead well for about 10 minutes, until it becomes smooth and elastic.
7. Shape into a ball, place in a bowl and cover with a tea towel.
8. Leave to rise in a warm place for about 3 hours, until doubled in size.

Method for the filling:
9. Preheat the oven to 230-240° C (475-500° F).
10. In a food processor, blend together the red peppers, the garlic, the onions and the parsley.
11. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, tabasco, paprika and the oregano to the parsley mixture in the mixer. Blend well.
12. Add this final mixture to the ground meat. Mix well. Salt and pepper to taste.
13. Deflate the risen dough and take a small portion of it.
14. Place the ball of dough on a floured surface and roll into a round, flat circle, about 0.3 cm (1/8-inch) thick and 15-16cm (5.9-6.3 inch) large.
15. Place three circles of dough on a baking sheet.
16. Take 1 big tablespoon filling, spread on one cicle of dough and repeat the process with the other two.
17. Bake in the preheated oven for about 10 minutes.
18. Repeat the process from point 14 to 17, until everything (dough & filling) has been used.
19. Serve warm (or cold).

Remarks:
Instead of using red Tabasco sauce, you can take Sambal Oelek or any hot/chili sauce of your choice.
You can also use ground lamb, if you fancy that meat.
Always keep an eye on your "Lahmacuns" while they bake. They have to be taken out of the oven as soon as the dough is baked through.
Pile the hot "lahmacuns" together and wrap in aluminium foil. That prevents them from hardening/drying.

Serving suggestions:
Roll the "Lahmacuns" up before eating and serve with "Tzatziki" sauce. You can eat them either warm or cold.
It is also very common to sprinkle some lemon juice and grated cheese over the meat topping.

***************

~ Lahmacuns ~
Recette (seulement pour la garniture de base) par Bebop de "Plaisir Des Papilles" (Suisse) et adaptée par Rosa @ Rosa's Yummy Yums

Pour environ 10 galettes.

Ingrédients pour la pâte:
500g de Farine fleur
1 1/2 CC de Sel
1/2 CC Sucre
2 CC de Levure sèche (en granulés)
240ml d'Eau tiède
Ingrédients pour la garniture:
2 Poivrons rouges, nettoyés et coupés en dés
3 Gousses d'ail, hachées
2 Oignons, hachés
1 Bouquet de persil plat
1 Boite (400g) de tomates concassées
2 CS de Purée de tomates
1 CC de Tabasco rouge
1/2 CC de Paprika doux
1/2 CC d'Origan séché (en option)
500g de Viande de boeuf hachée
Sel, à volonté
Poivre, à volonté

Méthode pour la pâte:
1. Tamiser la farine et le sel dans un grand bol.
2. Dans un petit bol, dissoudre la levure et le sucre dans 100ml d'eau.
3. Mettre de côté pendant 5 minutes, puis bien mélanger.
4. Incorporer le mélange eau/levure et l'eau restante dans la farine.
5. Bien mélanger jusqu'à optention d'une boule de pâte.
6. Pétrir pendant 10 minutes, jusqu'à ce que la pâte soit élastique et lisse.
7. Former une boule, mettre dans un grand bol et couvrir avec un linge.
8. Laisser lever dans un endroit chaud pendant 3 heures, jusqu'à ce que la pâte ait doublé de volume.

Méthode pour la garniture:
9. Préchauffer le four à 230-240°C (475-500° F).
10. Mixer les poivrons, l'ail, les oignons et le persil.
11. Ajouter la boite de tomates concassées, la purée de tomates, le tabasco, le paprika et l'origan, puis mixer.
12. Ajouter ce mélange à la viande hachée, saler, poivrer et bien mélanger.
13. Faire retomber la pâte et en prélever une petite portion.
14. Former une galette assez fine (0.3cm) d'environ 15-16 cm de diamètre avec un rouleau à pâtisserie.
15. Déposer trois galettes sur une grande plaque qui va dans le four.
16. Recouvrir chaque galette avec une grosse cuillère à soupe de la préparation à la viande.
17. Mettre dans le four préchauffé et cuire pendant une dizaine de minutes.
18. Recommencer la préparation de la galette (du point 14 au point 17), jusqu'à épuisement de tous les ingrédients.
19. Servir chaud (ou froid).

Remarques:
Au lieu d'utiliser du Tabasco, vous pouvez prendre du Sambal Oelek ou une autre sauce aux piments.
Si vous préférez, vous pouvez aussi utiliser de la viande d'agneau hachée.
Bien contrôler les galettes lorsqu'elles cuisent. Il faut les sortir que lorsque la pâte est cuite.
Après chaque fournée, empiler les galettes dans un grand papier d'aluminium pour que la pâte ne durcisse pas.

Idées de présentation:
Au moment de la dégustation, rouler les galettes et servir avec du "Tzatziki". Elles se mangent aussi bien chaudes que froides!
On peut aussi y ajouter (après la cuisson) du jus de citron ou du fromage râpé.